Humidity in the area is making my Satin coats blush..got to 90% yesterdat at 72*. It's that in-between time where operating HVAC systems are not doing a great job at pulling humidity.

I am coating an extremely large cut up Braz Cherry floor in a very nice home. I've got sealer + 2 coats DuraSeal OMU Satin down, I'm not happy with sheen it's a bit streaky and blush looking, though I am never thrilled about the look of OMU satin in general. I use 2-comp H20 on 90% of my jobs and really prefer the hand rubbed look of the H20 satin over OMU satin. Problem is, as you know, H20 alone doesn't do much for BC so this job demanded OMU. Now, with 2 coats of OMU + sealer already on the floor would 2-comp H20 look essentially the same as a 3rd coat of OMU with exception to the look of the satin sheen? Dura Seal tech says it will bond after 3 days curing of OMU. I've used 2-comp on top of 500sealer many times but never stacked it on 2 coats of OMU. Thanks for any input.

Chris,

Look at it this way. Have you ever done a recoat with your 2 part waterborne finish? You have? Well, there's your answer. You can apply the H2o finish over the OMU. I was told that the OMU hade to completely finish off gassing before one should over coat with water but hey, it will probably work. The trick with OMU satins is to apply evenly, which can be difficult to do. Thin coats work better than heavy coats to produce an even sheen. Will the water look like OMU? No, it will look good though as the existing finish is coloring your b. cherry wood.