Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Another Kahrs doorjamb stumper
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 5:02 pm 
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Here is the latest. Ref the pics below. I've come to this doorway and don't know how to easily get around it. I have a 2 3/8" sliver between the wall and flooring.

I put in the short filler piece on the right-hand side (second pic). Now, the doorway is short than the 82" boards, so I am not sure how to get a single board under the jambs on both sides of the jamb. I suppose I could notch for both jambs, then completely remove the left side (second pic again) portion of the board and try to angle it in. Then put some kind of filler piece in the left (like I did on the right side - second pic below again).

This is a tough one, so all advice is appreciated. I'm sure one of the pros will have an easy solution.

Image
Image


website: https://home.comcast.net/~rtbrick/flooring_issues.htm


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 7:24 pm 
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First off I think undercutting the jambs is the thing to do. Second I would have a seam in there or two.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:19 pm 
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Location: redding, ca
I would two piece it. With your expansion you will be able to slide one side back far enough to get the other side in place and under the casing without fighting it.


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PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 8:32 pm 
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Jambs are undercut.

The problem with the two-piece method is this: With the Kahrs planks, the locking tabs are on all four sides. One should really only cut the ends when starting a new row against a wall or ending a row against a wall. If you arbitrarily cut the end of a board before reaching a wall, then there will be no locking method for the next board to adjoin to.

With my current issue the board is longer than the doorway is wide, so I can't simply notch each end for the jambs and angle/slide them in. I'm thinking I may have to lay a board from left to right and cut it prematurely so it just tucks under the jamb on the far side. Then I'll need to fit a filler piece in on the room side (I'll actually have to put the filler in first, then tuck under the jamb) and hope for the best.

As always, please weigh-in if applicable....


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 10:33 pm 
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Cut the locks off and glue it!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Apr 03, 2006 11:00 pm 
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cut your starter to fit into the middle of the door and trim off the lock off and glue it like floorguy says. Don't try to wrap both walls and casings in one shot. Not worth the trouble.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 5:22 pm 
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I have been shaving the locking tabs off in order to glue some of the tricky areas that I cannot lock together.

If I cannot hit both sides of the door jamb with one board somehow, then I will end up with a flat end "joint" where two boards would meet. Like in the picture below.
Image

How do I make this joint stable and even (no edges or sock catchers)? I can of course apply glue to flat ends and butt them together. I suppose the rest of the installation would make that area lay flat. I guess I could also try to put the joint close to the least noticeable jamb just in-case it doesn't come out smooth.

As well, I could lock a short board, with flat ends, right in the middle of the doorway and then fill under the jambs with short pieces. I think someone alluded to this already.


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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:25 pm 
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Explain why you think you need to cut ends?

Cut the lock off and most of the underhang, on the ends and glue it.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 6:53 pm 
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The doorway is not as wide as the Kahrs board. The floor I am installing runs up to about 3 inches of the doorway. I do not know how the notch out both ends of the board (horseshoe style) so it will fit under both doorjambs. I don't think it is physically possible to wedge the board under opposite doorjambs. THEN, I have a filler piece to add on either side of the doorway on the room side.

Maybe these pics will help me explain:

Image
Image


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 8:02 pm 
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Sure you can! You just have to hold your mouth right.

It is beneficial, to install the plank that extends out into the doorway the least, first.

Ok, wait, how long are the planks, and how wide is the cased opening?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 04, 2006 11:09 pm 
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A joint like you show in our last pic? do what we do and use a router and spline, or if you must a biscuit joiner.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 12:31 am 
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The board is wide enough to wrap the door way( goes into the entry way)?
you don't need to cut the ends just start like any other row, cut it where it goes about 6 inches into the doorway(Width of door towards other side). Scribe it in and cut with jigsaw and fit into place. Lay full plank and scribe the next side of the doorway(casing on left side) using jig saw to cut horseshoe shaped cut into the end of the boards so it wraps to the other side of the wall. Then get scribe and cut the rest of the room and move on to the entryway and finish it. No biggy just thinking about it too much. Dont put any cut ends into the field, just trim dowm the locks and glue then tap it in.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 05, 2006 7:13 pm 
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HA! Hold your mouth just right! Sounds like something I would say...

I believe cerscott1 has the solution (early in the thread). I believe I can two piece it using a short piece on one side of the doorway, then use the appropriate sized piece to fill the other side. All locking mechanisms will stay intact and I can just shave off the tabs and glue. That's what I'll try anyway.

I agree, I was probably overthinking. I'll post up results for everyone to see (or ask what my next solution is once I dork up this attempt- LOL). TKS.


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