Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Re: bad floor buckling
PostPosted: Tue Jan 06, 2015 4:03 pm 
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Location: Tucson AZ
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Stephen Perrera
Top Floor Installation Co.
Tucson, Arizona
IFCII Certified Inspector
Floor Repairs and Installation in Tucson, Az
http://www.tucsonazflooring.com


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 Post subject: Re: bad floor buckling-an update
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 2:24 pm 
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Hi, I have not written in awhile. After having about 7 tech's and paying about $1000.00+ we were unable to find out what our flooring moisture issues was for sure. Best guess the plastic barrier tween slab and foundation is missing or compromised.

It is not a plumbing leak, not an AC or furnace leak, not a groundwater issue from too high of landscaping or water flowing toward the house.

However if you look at these two pictures and consider how high the slab tested for moisture during a drought I think we can see that the flooring company was ignorant and negligent. They did not deal with these cracks in a competent way.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/15974061@ ... otostream/
https://www.flickr.com/photos/15974061@ ... otostream/

Several of the vendors including a certified independent flooring inspector was astounded to hear they did not offer to do a moisture barrier material under the floor or suggest a floating floor. I had asked the guy about using one and said no they don't recommend that because they grow mold. I think the guy must have started in tiles and got good with it and then just took on other things like wood with no experience at all with it. Wood is a specialty.

This is the floor I live with now and look at every day-beautiful isn't it. And my husband's health is wrecked for an unknown amount of time due to this repair.

We will be suing this company.


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 Post subject: Re: bad floor buckling
PostPosted: Thu Mar 26, 2015 3:44 pm 
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Thats just a sad story we hear a lot round hear. I looked at some pics again and it's obvious they didn't properly prep the slab ie - scarify it to make certain it was free of old adhesive residue and had the correct profile. Any adhesive whether it's moisture control or not will debond in these instances as well as the patch.

It's my opinion that installers should not be responsible for an unforeseen site condition after the fact if they followed through all the guidelines and necessary testing, checking grading, need for gutters and or french drains and proper prep. Sadly it seems these guys did not.

https://www.flickr.com/photos/15974061@ ... 9724396727

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Stephen Perrera
Top Floor Installation Co.
Tucson, Arizona
IFCII Certified Inspector
Floor Repairs and Installation in Tucson, Az
http://www.tucsonazflooring.com


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 Post subject: Re: bad floor buckling
PostPosted: Sat Apr 04, 2015 12:42 am 
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Do you have a basement because by the look of some of the pics it looks like you have a wood subfloor and it looks like beams. Again im finding it hard to tell from the pics. Or is it partial slab partial wood subfloor?
There is a company that makes a type of glue that makes a mosture barrier that can withstand up to 200 psi of moisture/water leaching through concrete. We use it on some of our commercial jobs but only if the plans call for it do to its price. It costs 500$ per 5 gallon bucket but I swear by it it works greeat. Im trying to find out from my boss what its called and who makes it. All I remember is that it has three B's on the pail "BBB".
if that patch is coming up with the wood they did a crap job patching. Whatever surfice you use concrete patch needs extencive prep before puttin the patch down. Like the other guy said earlier iif the concrete is very smooth mirror finish whatever u want to call it, it must be roughed up either shot blasted, scarified, or ground down with a diamond plate on a floor buffer. Then it must be swept then vaccumed to the max NO DUST! Then when mixing the patch it must be mixed properly no mixing on the floor and no mixing by hand with a trowel in a bucket. Its gotta be mixed with a heavy duty drill and whip mixed very thuroly depending on how bad the floor is I usually do it in 2-3 coats first coat thick mix then any ridges scrap3d down or even screened with buffer if nessacary vaccumed no dust then the next coat the patch can be a little bit wetter. Usually if the floor isnt in to bad of shape 2 coats is enough to get it to be perfectly smooth but if not the third coat again either scrape or screen with buffer vaccumed no dust lol then a nice wet finish coat and it should come out perfect if hes a good mechanic. Again screened with buffer vaccumed perfect no dust. The last screeningserved the purpos3 of cutting any ridges smoothing outany bumps and bubbles and roughing the patch up enough that the glue will stick like crazy.
If all those steps were done then u would never seen the planks having the glue and patch stuck to the bottom. The only thing that would happen is the planks would be a bitch to pull up and might actually rip appart leaving thin strips of wood on top of the glue thats stuck to the floor. I really wish I could do some investigating on your home to find the problems for you and sort them out but im in n.y. I hate shithead contractor that rob people blind. Sorry for the instruction manual on patching I just get go7ng on a rant when I hear or see people getting screwed. I hopze things work out for you. If you have any questions. Let me know. There really is so much more I can write to you j6st on what youz wrote and the pics you posted but we would be here for a few days lol good luck

Tommy


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