Amish made hardwood

It is currently Wed May 08, 2024 11:36 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Baseboard heating?
PostPosted: Mon Oct 25, 2004 2:15 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:58 am
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire
Does anyone know how to deal with baseboard heating registers? Should I take them off? Work/Cut around them? Should I push the first row underneath and face nail it at an angle? If I take the entire register off, I still have to deal with the radiant piping. :?

Any advice or tips would be greatly appreciated! Thx!

PBuddy


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Amish made hardwood

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:04 am 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 1732
Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Okay you northern climate guys--what's a good answer for Buddy?

_________________
See the room scene gallery at Uptown Floors.

Uptown was created by your administrator, offering my high quality 3/4" engineered floors made in the USA. Unfinished and prefinished.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 10:39 am 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 1:13 am
Posts: 36
Location: lost
If the home owner wants to pay to have them removed and reinstalled go for it . It will be a lot easier for you. Just don't cut around the pipes tight or the pipes will creak when the system gets hot.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: RE: Baseboard heating?
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 4:52 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:58 am
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire
Thx for the replies guys. What if I don't remove them? What would be the best approach here? Angle nail? I don't want the edge of the 1st row side to be visible obviously.

The registers can be removed, albeit with some difficulty (they are nailed at both top and bottom ends into the wallboard with flat nails which are hard to get at), but even then I still have to work around the piping so its almost pointless to remove them. Argh! :x Any other thoughts? Anyone else? Thanks...

PBuddy


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2004 9:12 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 1:13 am
Posts: 36
Location: lost
P,

Is this a prefinished floor or unfinished and how far off the sub floor are the registers. The back part of the register that is nailed to the wall. If you can get the wood to slide under the flange( or what ever you want to call it ) it will look better and there will not be a dust catcher. Glue and angle nail but watch to make sure the back of the board does not kit up. If wood floor is close to sliding under the register but wont. I'll take a pry bar and very carefully bend the flange up so the floor will slide under it. Hopefully you understand what I am talking about.


Dave WY


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 02, 2004 3:27 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:58 am
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire
pig-pen wrote:
take a pry bar and very carefully bend the flange up so the floor will slide under it. Hopefully you understand what I am talking about.


Dave thanks! Great advice. This is exactly what I've been able to do.

A Few more questions:

pig-pen wrote:
Glue and angle nail but watch to make sure the back of the board does not kit up.


Glue? Glue to what? Felt, subfloor? Is this ok with a prefinished solid? Also, how do I make sure the back part (facing the wall) doesn't kick up? There will be a lot of unequal force (obviously). If it does, how do I remedy?

Thx again,
PBuddy


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Update on this obstacle
PostPosted: Mon Nov 08, 2004 12:15 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor
User avatar

Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 10:58 am
Posts: 13
Location: New Hampshire
One idea I thought of was to glue 2 strips together (essentially making it a 4-1/2 inch width strip), and then you can slide the one half under the flange (nice and level), and finally face and tongue nail the half closest to you. Any thoughts on this? Angle nailing is a bitch with the stupid piping and heat fins in the way.

In a related idea, I was able to deal with the heat pipe by using a door jamb drill bit to cut a hole big enough to fit around it, then cut to the circle on each side of circumference so it slides into the notch with spacing.

Many of you probably already knew this technique, but I just thought I'd add it to the record here. Maybe someone will find it useful.

PB


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 09, 2004 9:24 am 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Wed Sep 15, 2004 1:13 am
Posts: 36
Location: lost
PB,

Cut your felt out under the register and glue the floor to the subfloor. Check the floor after you lay three or four rows and to see if the floor is lay flat. :D As far as glueing the two together thats fine. Good Luck
Dave


Top
 Profile  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 8 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO