Amish made hardwood

It is currently Sat Feb 24, 2024 7:43 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Carpet to hardwood flooring transitions
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 12:27 pm 
Offline
New User

Joined: Sat Aug 21, 2004 12:58 pm
Posts: 3
New guy back again! What do you recommend as a transiton piece which would cover :wink: wood flooring to carpet? Is T-molding or a reducer recommended? Thanks everyone!


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 

 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:18 pm 
Offline
Prized Contributor

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am
Posts: 3509
Location: Austin
End cap, or carpet reducer, it is sometimes called.

_________________
When you want it done WRIGHT
www.AustinFloorguy.com


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: tuck
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 3:39 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 11:23 am
Posts: 38
Location: central Florida
I always tuck the carpet to the hardwood, if I can i turn a board (header) and tuck to it. not a real big fan of transitions here..with 3/4" I'll turn a board and miter the edge to slope it down to the level of the carpet.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Sep 04, 2004 4:52 pm 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 1732
Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Sean has the right idea. But then it could be a regional thing. Here's a picture of a 3/4" solid product with a board turned in the doorway. The bathroom wasn't completed at the time(new)home and they were going to put ceramic tile in to come up with the same vertical floor height.

Image

Most all manufacturers make a one sided reducer for this purpose(carpet). However with a little creativity, any good installer can make one from the product itself.

_________________
See the room scene gallery at Uptown Floors.

Uptown was created by your administrator, offering my high quality 3/4" engineered floors made in the USA. Unfinished and prefinished.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Making it from the product
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 7:28 am 
Glad to hear it, Ken!

Quote:
any good installer can make one from the product itself.


While not an installer by trade, I am fairly adept at carpentry, etc. I've been thinking that I will make my own mouldings for a few areas of my house that I'm putting Hardwood in.

The question is, if I'm using a pre-finished floor (3-1/4" x 3/4" Solid Wood Kempas Plank), where do I start experimenting with finishes to get close to matching the factory? It doesn't look like a satin polyurethane, but rather more like some matte-finish lacquer, which I don't have experience with.

Any tips would be appreciated.

-mlm


Top
  
 
 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 9:01 am 
Offline
Site Admin
User avatar

Joined: Wed Aug 04, 2004 10:08 pm
Posts: 1732
Location: Bonita Springs, Florida
Quote:
where do I start experimenting with finishes to get close to matching the factory?


You don't need to match finishes. Cut a bevel on the bottom side of the board and then taper back(also with a table saw) the side of the board. I have pics of that somewere.

_________________
See the room scene gallery at Uptown Floors.

Uptown was created by your administrator, offering my high quality 3/4" engineered floors made in the USA. Unfinished and prefinished.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Thanks for the reply, Ken.
PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 10:59 am 
Right; I suppose I should have been more specific (as usual).

I'm with you on the technique for transitions / thresholds.

In our modified split-level, the living room is midway between the downstairs and the upstairs, and the upstairs dining room floor is about 48" above the living room finished floor, so I have an exposed edge to deal with.

Right now, as you'd expect, the carpet is folded under so you look at looped over section of carpet when you stand in the LR and look at the DR floor.

SWMBO is undecided at this point if we will use a trim board to the height of the finished floor (either floor, or painted to match the casing and baseboard) or if I should put a round over on the last board and have the trim board come up tight underneath.

I'm also toying with the idea of trying to "Face" the steps with hardwood, and if I do that, I'd rather mill my own boards than buy the stair-nose, but only IF I can make it work, and try to match the finish reasonably.

Even though it doesn't look like poly, I'm experimenting with a scrap rounded over piece now, coated with poly, to see how close it is.

Thanks for any more ideas you might have about the finish.

Great board -- I've been lurking for 6 months or more on the old board. Need to register here, I suppose at some point.

-mlm


Top
  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 7 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO