Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 21, 2007 7:53 pm 
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Board repairs in a prefinished floor and the factory warranty. I still havent seen where they stand on this. With how picky they are about everything (in order to actually hold up a claim) I would have to think that because tounges are being removed from the flooring etc. that they dont hold up thier warranty after all. That is why I didnt suggest the board repairs. If they are going to void your warranty may as well get it refinished.

An oil based finish would be darker, and give the floor more depth. As I said before I am unsure if you can use that finish on this particular wood. Ive never sanded a merbuea floor (I have had peices in medallions, and borders) and coated those floors with oil and waterbase. But a whole floor I am unsure of wich finish would work better.

We typically remove the shoe moulding wehn we sand. That way we get the floor nice and flat under where it goes (so the shoe doesnt stick up 1/8 higher than the floor, or less) Some people dont, and some costomers ask us not to. I recomend removing the shoe, or lowest peice of trim. If it was a one peice 5 1/4 mdf trim peice I would probobally leave it, but usualy there is serveral actual peices to make those, should be able to remove one of them (you will have to have it all re-caulked/painted though).

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 4:15 pm 
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I would have to think that because tounges are being removed from the flooring etc.

When I do board repairs/replacements, I do not remove the tongues and fail to see why one would need to do so. I do remove the bottom of the groove on the last board being fitted in and that is the recommended way of doing it. Perhaps you were referring to the tongues on the end butts. Sometimes, those do have to be removed. But if one is careful in the replacement board selection, you can also avoid going this as well. It does depend on the flooring and brand. I have found that many of the oriental imports will have about four to five lengths in their products (similar to some engineered) and that by carefully removing and selecting the replacement boards, you can keep the tongues intact on the sides and ends. Also, it maybe possible to just remove the boards all along the length of one course, to include all the damaged boards, and then just complete the installation to the nearest wall. Still, less expensive than a refinish and less intrusive.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 22, 2007 5:54 pm 
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I actually meant the groove. Apprarently it was late lol.

I have been able to keep the butt end tounges in tact in some cases, But I always have to rip the groove (not on the butt end) off. I usually glue them into the floor and only nail in extreme cases.

I guess when I said tounge, I was more referring to the tounge and grove system.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 01, 2007 10:56 pm 
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New update: had another outfit come around today and suggest a new option.

The guy took a look at the floor and said board replacements aren't going to work because the wood won't match (merbau changes considerably in colour, as the previous pictures show), even if you could find the same wood, which apparently would be quite difficult.

He also gave the thumbs-down to the refinish option. Pointed out that losing the bevels would not be an option most people would want and that trading a 25 year warranty aluminum oxide finish for an "out of the bottle" finish would be crazy.

That, of course, leaves replacing the entire floor. The insurance company won't like it, but it's the only way to restore my floor to its pre-accident condition.

Any thoughts?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 7:32 am 
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Ya, the new guy wants the big money!!

Board replacement!!! No, it is not going to match immediately, but it will catch up rather quickly, and within the year.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 9:37 am 
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That's what I thought originally too, but hoping that the wood will catch up doesn't seem like an option anyone who has seen the floor advises. The distributor does not seem to be able to find the wood to do a BR.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 11:31 am 
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Well, if one cannot even get the replacement flooring, then yes, total replacement is the way to go. I've come across this problem with damaged floors that were no longer made. All that could be done was to replace the entire floor.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:25 pm 
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Ya, if you cannot find the flooring, then a total redo is about the only option.

I thought I saw a picture of some boards

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 02, 2007 1:48 pm 
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Yeah there were a few reject boards left over from the installation (poorly milled I think?) shown in the picture. Less than 20% of what would be needed.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 26, 2007 10:51 am 
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Update: got the okay for the new floor. Somewhat sad to be losing the merbau since we really like it and apparently it's unavailable now. But looking forward to selection of a new variety.

On the shortlist:

Tigerwood
Brazilian Walnut
Brazilian Cherry

Black Walnut would be killer although I am a little concerned about its durability.

I've poured over the pictures from the gallery here. Anyone know of places where there are pictures of installed hardwood? The best I've found so far is: http://www.jstconstruction.com/floors.html


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 27, 2007 10:53 pm 
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I suggest you find a product that will be around for a while with a species that will be around and redily available for a while as well.

Brazillian Cherry (Jatoba) has been around and I believe will be for quite some time.

There are a few "fad" woods out there ... Lyptus could be one for example.

Point is ... God forbid this ever happen again but you may want product availability or an unopened box or two in the attic if lightening should ever strike twice ...

Also, you may want to do a Craig's List on your existing wood floor. You may make a buck or two or save a buck or two having someone out there willing to remove your floor and somehow try to reclaim it ... Amazing how people out there will do almost anything for a good deal.... not sure your insurance has you paying for anything but we charge $3/ft. to remove hard surfaces. Maybe you can sell your floor for a buck a foot and someone will come with their favorite prybar and pay you to do the wreck out.....

Good Luck,
Will

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 1:54 am 
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Update: still haven't selected a new variety. Love the merbau and nothing we've looked at seems as appealing.

Would it be completely insane to consider a refinish in lieu of a brand new floor?


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 11:19 am 
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you cant find pre finished merbuea? My distributor gave me some unfinished merbua peices last week to show a customer. Leads me to believe it is avaliable somewhere.
Ken may be able to help locate some prefinished for you

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 18, 2007 4:54 pm 
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having watched this thread go full circle....
wood is wood and variations in milling and topical finish is the only difference.
a REAL professional can take a piece of wood and make it look the same as the installed wood, as long as it is the same species.
He may have to trim and bevel the edges, but professionals in the wood industry look at this repair as board replacements.
I called a good friend of mine who is full time in the hardwood installation business and an instructor for nwfa teaching custom installations.
explaining this thread he responded that this is a custom repair that costs more, nothing else...... replacement of the entire floor is wasteful and not necessary.

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