Submitted by Gary Clontz. I'll let Gary offer the details..

not my style, but I can admire the time it took to do this right. Now did the people want quieter steps or something? Just curious why you went with the cork? It looks like its a reto fit to some carpeted steps?

That's exactly it! This was a retrofit. The people are kinda artsy folks and had carpet on the stairs between those false oak end caps/treads. To replace with solid treads would have required dismantling the handrails and they didn't want to go there. It was their idea to use cork and they selected the pattern. At first, we stained the new nosing to match the existing oak but it looked blah. So then we tried staining it that darker color (using my secret technique and stain), and they loved it. Coated the nosings with three coats of Pacific Strong for durability. It certainly isn't for everyone and isn't my cup of tea, but it is an interesting approach to redoing a carpeted staircase. And you're right. It was tricky; especially those winders. Had to make templates for each one as each one was different.

That's some good work Gary. Gives me an idea on a job coming up.

Gary:

I don't have experience with cork, but now I'd like to after seeing your work.
From my furniture restoration days, cork reminds me of Carpathian Elm often used on Victorian chair splats and other pieces.

Nice work!

By the way, I just did my first two oak stair installs. I bought a Stair Wizard. Took the first two treads to get the hang of it, but . . .
Ever used one? Like it?

Charlie

Cork is interesting. Comes in 12x12 tiles or 1x3 panels. Pretty easy to work with. Cuts with a utility knife. There are many, many styles and colors to choose from. As far as stair work. Yes, I got a wizard years ago (10) and use it when doing boxed in staircases and full treads. Not to useful for open ended stairs though or treads longer than 3.5 ft. It works good for what it is, which is a transfer jig. Allows one to get the treads snug and well fit. Trick is cutting exactly on your mark. Sometimes, you'll be 1/2 deg. off of zero on your slider and getting the slider to stay on that 1/2 deg. spot isn't always very easy. I do lots of cuts where I'll cut within 1/8" of my mark till I get it dialed in, if ya know what I mean. I also usually angle my cut about 2 degrees for a back cut to allow the tread to drop in easier. Good luck on stair building.