Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Cupping Kempas
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:36 pm 
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:x Hi Friends,

Not my first hardwood gluedown, but maybe my last.
I glued 5/16" solid kempas using Stark 400 Adhesive. Day 1 - Mucho floor laid. Day 2 - half of it has cupped. Not an immediate tear out isuue, but cupping is substantial and owner is not happy. I used the proper trowel, prepped the floor well (grind,patch,clean,satisfactory moisture test). What happened overnight. Thanks to all replies.

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PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 4:54 pm 
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was the HVAC on?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 5:07 pm 
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There is no HVAC at this point. Building is undergoing a total rehab and the system has been disabled for weeks. The weather may be affecting it, but it has been 65 or so for a while and dry.

Thanks for reply ... I'm freaking out if you couldn't tell.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:18 pm 
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Water in the adhesive? I did a google on Stark 400. It is an acrylic urethane. That means it has water in it. It also is to be used on engineered ONLY. IMO, that is the problem. You used the wrong adhesive for that floor.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 6:34 pm 
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Thanks Gary

The manufacturer reccomended this adhesive. Any short term solutions?
I appreciate your help.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:19 pm 
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Let it sit for awhile. The cupping may go down, or it might not. Only time will tell.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 7:25 pm 
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Thanks brother ... For the ray of hope ... I appreciate your time


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 8:25 pm 
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Let me guess??? Solid over concrete, and using a waterbased adhesive to boot!!! If they recommended that adhesive, then they are idiots, and either misunderstood, and thought you had an engineered going over that concrete like you should have, or they are clueless about their business. That's worse then Home Depot's advise.


Dude, STOP now, before you eat anymore flooring and have to tear out more. This floor is going to compression set on you!!!

This floor is doomed. The cupping will get worse and it may buckle! You did use a moisture blocker, didn't you?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:30 pm 
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Floorguy,

Of course the manufacturer and online store did me wrong. I've been through the Home Depot Rah Rah a hundred times, I don't generally believe much of what anyone tells me, but I verified in writing from the manufacturer that the floor and adhesive was appropriate and that the warranties are intact.

The recomended adhesive is apparently the problem.

As far as the engeniered stuff I "should have used", the owner shelling out the $$ specifically wanted hardwood flooring, not plywood or laminate.
So I found a floor and hoped that the people milling it could tell me where or where not it is appropriate.

I researched to back it up and found plenty of info supporting glue down hardwood over concrete.

An old friend told me tonight,"Take it on the chin, rip it up, and move on"

The best part, I have to finish the job - big party booked on Saturday.

Ain't life grand!!

Any advice for filing a claim against these jerks?

Thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Apr 18, 2006 10:35 pm 
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Moisture blocker ... they told me specifically not to use one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 12:11 am 
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I recall years ago my brother, a very good carpet and vinyl layer, was going to install prefinished, solid ash parquet flooring for a customer over their existing vinyl floor. He asked which glue to use and I specifically told him NOT to use a latex or acrylic adhesive but a something like Franklin 911, which is a chlorinated solvent adhesive that was still available at that time. Well, he decided not to listen to me and used some Henry's latex floor adhesive. The parquet cupped big time and he ended up ripping it out and replacing it.
Life lesson here. You cannot use an adhesive that has ANY water in it to glue down SOLID wood flooring, especially thin solid wood. You must use a moisture cured urethane or similar that contains NO water. You may use acrylic urethanes on some ENGINEERED floors but not all. And some latex adhesives will work on certain subfloors and engineered floors. Choose your adhesives wisely.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 7:42 am 
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In the end, your the professional, and should know your craft like the back of your hand.

If you have it in writing and they sent the adhesive, you may have a chance. But otherwise, sprikle a little salt & pepper on it, to make it taste better.

Sometimes we learn the hard way!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 4:53 pm 
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Wow ... Sounds like someone is perfect ....

Thanks for the positive feedback Gary


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:03 pm 
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ThoughtIKnewFloors wrote:
Wow ... Sounds like someone is perfect ....



A anal perfectionist, to be exact!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2006 6:51 pm 
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Have fun with that man. I price jobs high but no one wants to pay for the time that perfection takes. Peace Bro


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