Hi,

I have a situation where there is a tiled hallway which terminates at a new hardwood floor. I tried to explain this once before w/o luck so I now have a link to a couple of pictures below. This is a new install, never sanded over 3/4 thick ply over slab. The ply is actually 2 sandwiched sheets with staggered seams. The ply was attached to the slab with many PAF's. Notice that the ply only protrudes about 1/2" out from the last strip which is not nailed yet.

Obviously I have to make a custom flush reducer about 1" thick and that is no problem. The problem, if it really is a problem, is that there is not enough plywood to screw down the reducer. The obvious solution is to glue it to the tile. In theory this should not be done on a ply over slab because the ply can move in relation to the slab but on my install I wouldn't think it would move much at all. I figure I could glue it down (perhaps also put a little epoxy in the T&G) and then use some scrap wood wedged in between the edge of the reducer and a door which is a few feet down the hall to hold it tight while the glue dries.

Another alternative would be to perhaps make the existing hardwood strip adjacent to the reducer narrower and make the reducer wider so it has ply under it. Might look kind of strange but I'm willing to do it if it makes a better install. Or I could even make the reducer wide enough so it acts as the last strip and the reducer (I can cut tongues and grooves and rabbit to 3/4" thick over the ply). Appreciate any suggestions.

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/alexh1@sb ... pg&.src=ph

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/alexh1@sb ... pg&.src=ph

Thanks

I'd glue the custom made reducer to the tile with a flexable adhesive (PL 400, Bostick's Best, Sika, etc.) and glue the T&G as well. Epoxy or carpenter's yellow glue. The adhesive will still allow the reducer to move a little if needed without breaking it's bond. That's what I'd do.