In Gary's "Definition of Terms" guidebook ( ), this is what I call it.

1) Undercut........ To undercut something is to remove the bottom completely of a verticle surface. Example: to undercut a jamb or casing.
2) Beveling..........To cut or mold an edge at approx. a 45 degree angle. Example: to bevel the egde of a coffee table
3) Chamfer..........same as beveling, just a fancy word for it. Must be French
4) Backcut..........To backcut something is to remove part of some material from the bottom by cutting at any angle from the top down to the bottom. Example: to backcut a stair tread for easier fitting.

Just had to chime in on this. Chuck, I know you enjoy words and definitions. Just my take on it.

When I install treads against crowned skirts on both sides. I make a template using gp-15 or kraft paper. I then trace my template onto the tread, cut the two arcs(when the skirt is crowned, the cuts are arcs) and follow up by undercutting with a slide saw. I then adjust the tread with a jitterbug or sanding block until it drops in tight.

This is called a JibbityfloobogJerkitysandydammit.

Look it up in your Funk&Wagnall's.

Backcut or back-cutting

Chuck, I think you mis spelled it!

Chamfer has to be French because logic would dictate that it be called an inverted bevel, as I understand it a chamfer is angled from the bottom to the top like the edge on a counter top where the long point is at the bottom, whereas a bevel leaves the point at the top. I could be wrong but that was the way we always referred to them.

You guys are funny. I especially like the *****/damit word. In any event, I have new construction and a staircase very similar to the one pictured. If I may, I have some ignorant questions:
1. If you do not use full treads, what is underneath the strips for support?
2. In a new construction (staircase), would you recommend the treads or strips?
3. Can I assume from the picture that the face of the step was done in strips as well?
Some info. on my stairs:
*48" wide, 7 3/4" rise, 10 1/2" run
I appreciate your time and patience.

New guy

Most staircases here are 2x12 framing grade pine for the treads, and OSB on the risers.

Older homes did have stringers with treads right on the stringers. In that case plywood of a thickness of ¾" or greater would be needed to have a substrate for the strip flooring and nosing.

Here in N. Ca, builders often use premade OSB or plywood treads that are about 1" thick with plywood risers. Notched horses (stringers) are always 2x12 doug fir. In a few cases, builders have used what's called housed stringers where the stringers are routed and the treads are slid into the rout from behind. Anyone will tell you that full, solid treads look the best and using flooring on stairs, while generally ok or good looking, is a distant second to the strength and appearence of solid wood treads. If installing solid treads, you do not need rough plywood treads underneath. You do need adequate support. You will need to determine if three notched horses (stringers) will meet national and local guides. That would be 2' OC if your stairs are 4' across. Probably OK if you use SOLID 1&1/8" OAK or other hardwood. But four notched horses would be better, two on the sides and two down the middle.

Thanks guys for the response. I mean that. Taking the time to help me (and others) out is very kind. If I may, another question regarding stairs. We (i.e. my wife) is considering doing a carpet/hardwood combo on the stairs. The hardwood would show on the sides, with a carpet runner in the middle. Is this "normal"? I have seen it in houses but not often. When this is done, would one use a hardwood tread all the way across or just on the sides exposed? Is there a money/labor savings either way?

Those are called stair caps.
http://www.stairsupplies.com/index.asp? ... &ProdID=69
I don't like them. IMO, install a solid tread then have the carpet runner laid down the middle. You could then have it done the old fashoined way using decorative rods installed at the tread/risers junction. Those caps are always breaking and falling apart. I'm constantly asked to repair them.

Gary, here they use treads cut and fitted just like a full tread would be to make the "caps" onsite, without the middle. Then carpet is padded and stretched down the middle using tackstrip.

Looks ok.

What I've noticed is where the carpet tucks to the sides/edges of the tread, you usually can tell it isn't a solid tread unless they build up the center where the carpet goes so it sits much higher than the tread. Then the carpet edges can fluff over on top of the tread abit and hide the edge. But usually, the carpet layers just tack down the pad and stretch in the carpet and tuck to the treads. Then you can see the sides/edges and to me, that looks kinds funky.

Hey Guys,

Me again. A couple of questions re: the treads on stairs. How thick and of what material? I am sure there are several and would not mind hearing the different opinions. If I am going to have carpet down the middle with false end caps, what do I use for the tread? How does the false end cap affixed?, put on, etc.? I am ready to construct the stairs but I am attempting to get as much info. as possible prior to "doing it"

Thank you,

The false treads are typically glued and "pin" nailed. They are attached to the "rough" treads, which can be plywood, OSB, 2 x 12 solid lumber. Carpet goes on rough treads.

Please excuse my ignorance. So the overall thickness of the stair would be the rough tread (1.5" using 2x12) PLUS the false end cap? Or does the false end cap go on the end of the 2x12?

TIA