Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Different house, more longleaf pine, product recommendation?
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 12:25 pm 
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Joined: Mon Jun 10, 2019 12:02 pm
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In my previous post, I alluded to a 1920s house with normal oak floors for practice. Um... I think I was wrong. Is this also the longleaf pine?

https://imgur.com/a/1bmY1JJ

The county's information on this house was that it was built in 1925. I kind of have a theory that the central portion is a smidge older.

I don't think the long leaf is as fancy as what's in my older house. The boards mostly aren't always the full length of the room (so 10-12'') and the grain isn't quite as tight.

More recent information: Family owned this house then got a job transfer out of the area. They rented it out to bad tenants and couldn't get them evicted. The owner's husband came back and *broke out all the windows of the house*. At some point someone boarded it up, sometimes from the outside, sometimes from the inside. There actually does not seem to be any difference in the flooring around the windows or where rain would have blown-in, so I'm impressed. I bought it about 15 months ago, got windows installed about a year ago, and it's been a construction site since. When I finish the floors on the other house, I'm ready to start back on this one cleaning and working on the floors.

Any thoughts as to technique, products, etc? Or do you want me to clean and come back and show you what I'm working with here? I will be using the Basic Coatings Tykote system on the other house and so will have leftover product, etc.


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 Post subject: Re: Different house, more longleaf pine, product recommendation?
PostPosted: Mon Jul 22, 2019 10:28 pm 
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Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am
Posts: 1732
If you use the intensive floor treatment and scrub with nylon scrub pads the floor
will look a lot better. Some of the original finish will remain and you will have areas where the flooring has been "embossed" from traffic. This is where the soft grain has been worn or compressed from foot traffic to highlight the hard grain. I recommend using the finish that will add some amber tone before you use Street Shoe satin finish. One or two coats will stick to the old finish and the bare wood areas. Try a sample area to check how it looks. You would lose a lot of the thickness of your floor if you sanded everything to bare wood and this may be the sub-floor and the finish floor.


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