Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Estimation help
PostPosted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 6:47 pm 
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I was wandering if anyone could help me out with estimating the amount of glue needed to do 9000 sq ft of 7inch red pine and the best method to apply it.

Are the tubes better or a trowel application.

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 3:02 am 
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This isn't an easy answer. Personally, I think it will cost less, take no more time and be a neater and cleaner install using tubes of adhesive plus blind nailing. Some pros swear by full trowel application and no doubt, that will work well as I've done it. But it took longer and used much more adhesive. PL used to make a heavy duty adhesive in a large tube called PL 400. They still make it but do NOT use the water/latex low VOC formula. It may cup the flooring. Chemrex and Bostik's also make adhesives in tubes. I wouldn't use "Liquid Nails". Just not good enough. For a full trowel application, gluing down 3/4" flooring, the best coverage you can hope for is about 35 sq.ft. per gallon. So for 9000 sq. ft. divided by 35= 257 gallons. Bostik's BST comes in 5 gallon pails. So you would need approx. (52) 5 gallon pails at about $120.00 per 5 gallon pail = $6,500.00 for adhesive alone+tax and shipping. :shock:
I recall paying approx $5.00 for a large tube of PL400. Even if you got 50 sq.ft. per tube (doable), you would need 180 tubes x $5.00= $900.00. So for me, it's a no brainer. Sika also has a pretty cool system where you lay down their mat that has slotted cut-outs in it for the adhesive. Then you glue the flooring down using their adhesive.

http://www.sikaconstruction.com/tds-cpd ... tem-us.pdf

Of course they make other adhesives as well that you could use without their acoustic mat. As someone once told me, choose your adhesive wisely.


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 7:23 am 
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Thanx Gary. That sika product looks very interesting. Have you ever used it for an install?

Keith


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 12:54 pm 
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No, I have not. It is relatively new. Keep in mind, that it is designed to reduce noise as it's an acoustical mat. I think it's use would be in multi-storied buildings. However, no reason it cannot be used elsewhere. Is your installation over a wood subfloor or concrete?


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 9:32 pm 
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Over wood in a 4 million dollar home so I may mention the system to them but I am a little worried about that kind of an expense and not having seen it in action.

Still going to read up on it cause I am not sure if any staples are to be used.

Keith


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PostPosted: Fri Mar 07, 2008 10:35 pm 
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Is this pine flooring unfinished? Are you going to sand it after installation? The reason I ask is if it will be heavily sanded, don't concern yourself about being super clean and neat, since you'll sand off any glue smudges and such. I think I'd go with a good urethane adhesive in a tube and lay down 3/8" beads every 8", going out three rows or so. Then staple down the flooring. If it's pine, I'm guessing it is not end matched. This is a good system recommended by Carlisle Restoration for installing their wide plank flooring. Or, you could flip the boards upside down and apply adhesive on their backsides. It achieves the same result. Try a few different procedures and see what works for you. Sounds like a good gig. :)


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PostPosted: Sat Mar 08, 2008 3:54 am 
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I have used the sika adhesive on a full spread application. I believe the adhesive in tubes is the same adhesive from what I read. I would think this adhesive would be the way to go. Especially with the pneumatic application gun. 8)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Mar 09, 2008 3:33 pm 
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I havent seen the materials yet but if the ends are not tongue and groove will glue hold them or should I tongue and groove then or face nail/screw dowel.

Keith


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