Help!

My hardwood installer did not properly flatten the concrete sub-floor before gluing down engineered hardwood flooring even though we were constantly bugging him to do so. A small section of flooring in the entrance to the bedroom has a 3/8 inch valley which has a "hollow feel" and makes crackling noise when you walk on it. Obviously the floor was not properly flattened and needs to be fixed.

My questions are:

1) Can this be repaired so the patch job is not visible and without ripping up the entire floor? With tongue and groove I do not see how a small area can be patched since the tongue of the last patch piece won't fit into the groove of the existing floor + how can you rip out the bad pieces with damaging the surrounding ones?
2) If it can be spot repaired, what is the proper way to do it so that it is seamless?
Links to pictures of the issue:

http://s1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb434/gokctx/

I would say approx. 14-15 rows should be removed. An experienced hardwood installer can do this , and shouldn't have a problem affecting the adjoining rows. Then the low concrete area should be built up and flattened to within spec with patching compound, such as Ardex.

Re: not losing the t&g on the last row....IMO there's no reason to lose the t&g. (Again an experienced installer), should be able to "tent" the last 2 rows while aligning the t&g, then proceed to push the tent down into the adhesive, while keeping the t&g intact.

Easy repair, just time consuming.

It may be easy for someone with the knowledge and experience, which is few and far between.

The DriTac repair kit works wonders for small problem areas.

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... -floor.htm

Ken, I've used the DriTac repair kit for engineered. Worked great. Gotta be careful not to use the water based one for solid.

Thanks for all the suggestions folks.

I have a feeling my installer will push for using a "repair" kit such as glue injection or the Drytak repair kit. What course of action would you all suggest?

Should we try the "glue injection" or drytac repair kit first? He used titebond advantage adhesive and the wood is engineered 3/8 BR111 Amendoim. I have my doubts injection will fix a 3/8 inch depression. BR111 specs call for 1/8" max depression over 6 feet.

If that does not work I assume we can always fall back to removing the damaged pieces, build up the valley, and replace the wood. My biggest fear is the patch job will be obvious.

I have my doubts as well, but didn't want to cross my buddies And like Ken stated about knowledge and experience,( referring to a replacement repair ).

My feeling is...You gotta give the guy a chance at making it right, with whatever method he feels comfortable with, and take it from there.

I agree. Let the installer use his method of fixing the problem.

Yes, let him pick his poison. But after review of your photos, one, you cannot use a stick to measure the floor flatness, even though it may be straight it may not be thus exaggerating the situation.

We remeasured with a 6 foot straight edge and there is definitely a 3/8 inch valley-- the rest of the floor in all the other areas of the house have no more than 1/8 inch variation and you can feel the difference in how the wood sounds. We basically want to make sure the installer does the right fix and not the fix that is quickest and cheapest that may not solve the problem.

Thanks again for the recommendations.

Then I'd want it torn out and fixed as well. There's no reason for that and any hardwood installer worth his salt should be able to accomplish that. Might take a couple days for the patch to dry.

Then make him rip it out and fix it properly. It's his fault for ignoring your request to level the floor before the installation.

Does a customer really have to "request" to have the floor leveled? It seems the professional should have known to level the floor first; therefore, his negligence makes him liable for correcting his error.

Just sayin...I have had poor experiences with 75% of the contractors I've dealt with in my renovations.