Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: getting closer
PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2008 10:54 pm 
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Okay, so I am staining tomorrow, and after reading alot of the forums here and following alot of the advice given, I am going to plow ahead with this project.

So far this is what I have done...

Installed 1100 sq ft of plain sawn white oak, 2 1/4 x 3/4. Had two whole bundles of quarter sawn that I think got shipped with load by accident, spread them out in the great room (love quarter sawn, but couldn't justify the cost on this job)

Rented a square buff from the orange big box, sanded with 36, 60, 80, 120...Floor looks great at this point. Vaced everything up and water popped.

Heres where I went alittle astray, I let the floor dry overnight and resanded with 150 real lightly. Then I did a real thorough cleaning of the site, and water popped again. I did this to get less raised grain and still allow wood pores to still be wide open to accept a dark stain, english chesnut.

So have I messed up by double popping? Or do you think I will be fine. Was it a waste of time?

Plan to just use minwax stain, allow alot of drying time, then follow up with 3 coats of polo plaz.

Will a marron buff pad take any remaining raised grain off to give me a nice smooth finish when I buff between coats?

Thanks for your time again guys...I'll try and post a couple of pics when I'm all done.

Billm


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 07, 2008 2:32 am 
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Joined: Sat Sep 25, 2004 7:42 pm
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
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So have I messed up by double popping? Or do you think I will be fine. Was it a waste of time?

No, I don't think so. I've used that technique a few times for certain floors.
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Will a marron buff pad take any remaining raised grain off to give me a nice smooth finish when I buff between coats?

Try to find 3M's SPP maroon pads. There is a difference. The SPP pads are coarser and knock down the finish better and last longer. A fine screen may work better on a square buff as those buffers are not nearly as aggressive as a circular buffer.


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