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 Post subject: glue on the surface... !..
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:00 am 
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Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:39 am
Posts: 2
ok i need some help here as i think i really screwed up :(

We installed a pre engineered floor over concrete using bostiks best.

It is a remodel and an old slab in arizona so there was not a moisture issue so no MPV was used, just straight glue.

We used mineral spirts to wipe off excessive glue from the face as we went, covering the floor with rosin paper a few hours later.
This went on for about 3 weeks, (2800sf, lots of rooms, hallways, cuts and difficult slab transitions)

now we pull the paper and it seems as we didnt clean the surface as well as we had thought..
we have tried acetone and mineral spirts and these dont seem to be getting the stains off, it does lift some of the glue when we find it but it does look like there are "stains" left.

so my question is think....what do i do now? i really DO NOT want to sand the floor...could a refinsh fix the issue? could i refinish without sanding?

am i just done for?

any info would be great,

thanks


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 11:00 am 
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Joined: Thu Aug 05, 2004 5:44 am
Posts: 3509
Location: Austin
Board replacement!!

Your client paid extra for the outstanding finish that is on the boards now. Sanding and recoating, will totally void that warranty they paid extra for.

You can offer back a monitary settlement to there claim.

This is a case of live & learn. That glue has a way of getting all over the place, and you can't be in a hurry to cover the floor afterwards, without microscopic visual checking for glue smudges. If I don't have the window glare to work with, I have a light to add glare to find them.

Most moisture cure urethane glues, will etch the finish, leaving a dull spot, if it is on longer then 24 hours average. BEST, is about 12-18 hours and your screwed.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:49 pm 
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Joined: Sun Jan 14, 2007 9:39 am
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yeah this is what i have thought.... thankfully, or not so thankfully it is my house...so i dont know what option i will take yet.....

FWIW i used a couple halogine lights and watched the glare as we cleaned....just not well enough it seams..........!@#$@$%%^&&% :oops:

how well, if at all does the sandless floor prep work?

will it etch the surface enough to let the new coating stick?

thanks for you help


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 14, 2007 10:46 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:02 pm
Posts: 622
Location: Florida
you were supposed to clean as you installed. Waiting until you finished the installation left you in trouble.
Urethane residues will not remove.
Up to you;; Like Perry said: either board replacement of screen and re-coat.

Ray Darrah
Florida Floor Inspector


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Jan 15, 2007 12:18 am 
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Joined: Mon Apr 24, 2006 12:10 am
Posts: 25
Location: Orlando,FL
A lot of that glue will come off with Goo-Gone or Bostik's Ultimate Adhesive Remover.

I Have found that the Bostik's remover is great when removing fresh glue. But, for cured areas, the Goo-Gone works better.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 16, 2007 4:25 pm 
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Joined: Thu Aug 19, 2004 6:02 pm
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Location: Florida
The urethanes leave dull appearance to the surface.
WHY?
Everything sticks Best to Itself.
Two products made of same basic chemicals will react with each other because the love each other. ... because they are the same basic chemical.

SO:;; Urethane glue and urethane coatings......... what is going to happen? Ya gotta get the glue off FAST or it will react with the coating and become dull in appearance. The glue will stick to the finishes the same as it sticks to the bottom of the boards... so don't give it time to adhere to the finish or react with the finish..


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