Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Going Down in Flames
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:23 pm 
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Help,

6 year old slab on grade in Florida. The idea was to install engineered wood in the bedrooms, app 700 sq/ft total. After removing the carpeting, I am faced with "humps" in the concrete with other areas dropping off. I am dealing with that

I now realize I did things in reverse, I had ordered and received the wood prior to determining this was a viable option

I just completed a calcium chloride test, placing a total of 4 test kits, between 60 and 72 hours. All came in with over 5lbs per 1,000 sq/ft
Does this mean that I now have to use a barrier product like Bostik MVP first? or am I getting too caught up finer details? I can't give up now, after grinding down concrete indoors with a gas powered machine, I must go on


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 8:26 pm 
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Is it something you can float?


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2006 11:09 pm 
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One more thing, when I first cleaned the floors while scraping them, water seemed to soak in fairly quickly. However, when I pour just a little water on, it sits there? So, what is that from?

These floors were covered with carpeting and never exposed to anything expect some paint overspray, what is used during a regular slab install that would cause this?

and I do have floating instructions, I will call the manufactuer tomorrow, I really don't want to float it, what do you'all think, too many problems? Or is this typical stuff and I'm just wimping out


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 12:12 am 
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They may have used a concrete curing compound, which could interfere with adhesion. IMO, you will need to scarify the entire slab, level it (flaten) and use a mosture control product like MVP.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 7:49 am 
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Since it is engineered, I would use the W.F. Tayor adhesive system. It is a 2 part moisture blocker and the 2071, is the bee's knee's, compared to other adhesives. The adhesive alone is warrantied to 4.5#

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:39 pm 
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Hey thanks for the replies.

When I first checked for moisture, I taped plastic in various locations and left it there for several days, it was bone dry underneath?

Next I used a moisture vapor & alkali test kit, where you tape down a plastic cover over a test strip that changes color with moisture, than you match it up to a chart, that also came in an acceptable range

So, finally the calcium chloride and all over 5lbs per 1,000 sq/ft? I know that there is 6 mil palstic between the slab and the ground undeneath

How accurate are the calcium chloride test kits? Is the 3 lbs limit more to protect the manufactuere against claims and it is not accurate for real world conditions, meaning it's way to conservative and I will not experience any problems at the 5-6 range?


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 17, 2006 10:49 pm 
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Tell me how and where you prepped and placed the 3, yes, 3 cc tests.


You have to place 3 per 100 sq.ft, and get an average. If that makes any sense. Even 200 sq.ft. is suppose to get 3 tests done and an average taken.

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:01 pm 
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I was told 3 test kits needed for the first 1,000 sq/ft and 1 kit for each additional 1,000 sq/ft. So, based on that I used 4 kits.

I placed 1 kit in each of the four bedrooms that I hope some day(before I leave the planet) to install the engineered wood floor

BTW, I just spoke to tech support for Mapei, they recommended thier roll on product MRB here http://www.mapei.it/referenze/Multimedi ... _TD_EA.pdf
What about this approach??

Basically the floor must be 2-3 profile down? I guess that means to take off the surface, they were not able to explain that one exactly, this stuff gets rolled on with a roller, then if leveling is needed,WE primer and self leveling over the MRB, then I can get started LOL, I might try a Dremel tool to prep, kinda like using a toothbrush to clean the exterior of an office building. Actually I bought a 7" grinder and diamond cup wheel, one step up


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 18, 2006 1:12 pm 
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The best way to scarify is to rent a buffer with a grinding attachment. These are available at Home Depot Rental centers. It will raise lots of dust. The MRB states you need to remove the "bond breaker" for it to work. Get the buffer and gringing attachment. Explain to the guys at the rental yard what you are attempting to do. You want to scarify the top layer of your slab, removing up to perhaps a 1/16" . At this point, I would have attempted to return the flooring and buy something that can be floated. Good luck to you!


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