Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: how to transition wood floor to metal frame picture window?
PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 1:40 pm 
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i have a commerical job that requires me to install 1/2" hard wood (glue down) inside a store. At this location large metal frame picture windows run the lenght of one side. I've seen installations that butt directly to the metal frame is this correct? What is the cleanest method? Im aware of the expansion gap.


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 7:24 pm 
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Location: Austin
Rip one side off a "T" molding or buy endcap molding..

Condensation off those windows and metal, if they are outside windows, is going to play havoc along those windows.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 9:22 pm 
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Location: Coeur 'd Alene, Idaho
Perry is right if your climate creates those situations so be mindful ...

You may try leaving a very clean 1/4" expansion gap and filling it with the right color of silicone caulking so it looks sharp but will give and take as the floor shrinks and grows. We've had a customer that wanted NO trim :roll: ... so we installed with 3/8" ripper strip of ply wood about 1+" wide stood on edge and installed directly against it. Then removed the strip (hope you don't pinch it in too tightly :shock: or you'll play h*ll getting it out) and filled the gap with silicone caulk that was a pretty close match to the wood. Looked real sharp and the customer was thrilled. Personally ... I like trim ... different strokes etc...

That's also a good trick for filling your expansion joints around a tub should you ever find yourself installing up to one.

Hope that helps

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Heritage Hardwood Floors
Coeur 'd Alene, ID


In order to achieve what the competition cannot grasp, we must complete what they will not attempt. Nobody ever said it would be easy, but it's darn sure worth it.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 03, 2005 10:07 pm 
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The best way to finish that is with a header. Just use an elastomeric sealant.

There are plenty of elastomeric sealants on the market. I like one called "Big Stretch". It is designed for setting windows in block buildings. You can always color it with a stain marker after it dries.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 04, 2005 11:39 am 
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Thanks guys i'll try the sealent, I think thats the look the customer is looking for.


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