Is it Ok to cut the bottom of the groove off when installing the last board on the floor? It would make getting it in much easier.

What is the situation ? I cant think off why you would need to do that ? Other than a repair/ patch job

Sounds like he didn't want to remove the baseboards and undercut them. Now he is at the last row, scratching his head.

If there is no other option, you can remove the bottom half of the groove. I highly recommend using a good adhesive and face nails as opposed to just face nailing the board. I used PL 400 for many years but am now using the bostich adhesive.It is white, holds strongly and remains more elastic than PL 400 which is a good thing. You don't want to use adhesives that dry out too much and become brittle over time.

Or door casings. Which you would want to slide the last board in before the second to the last and use a pull bar thats ground off and double faced tape to pull it in place. burrrrp

That's inventive How bout a Crain suction cup with a strap clamp hitched to your truck bumper

But seriously... The Crain "Laminate" suction cups, those things work great on wood. Like an undercut fireplace that's a little tight. I've used pull bars and strap clamps with that thing to bail me out of a situation.

Thanks Howard, I made a sort of copy of the Torly's Bulldog for Uniclic systems and it works for T&G as well. I spent way to much money on replicating this tool cus I don't have a welder. But any pull bar with the lip ground off and some double faced tape will do the trick cheapest.

The trick is ...is to put yer foot on the taped part and hit the knocker.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/13772863@N08/3383669382/

Stephen, that's pretty cool. Also it's a good design for pulling in narrower cuts, due to the width of the head. If you use a suction cup, your limited to a 5" minimum width, ( plus a suction cups a pain ).
I'm thinking I may just use your idea with a pull bar
Last month I started making these pull bars in my shop, and selling them here and there. I call it the "Big Shot".

http://www.flickr.com/photos/49277015@N02/4517568177/

Well heck Howard I'd give one of them pull bars a try! I been looking at the Magnum ppls pull bars lately as an upgrade to the cheapy ones I get for free in Harmonics installation kits ppl buy.

Here's the Torly's Bulldog I tried to copy. I heard some other laminate manufacture copied it...quickstep. heh heh

http://www.torlys.com/Installation/Bull ... fault.aspx

Ya, I've been using those free cheepo pull bars too, was thinking of that Crain knuckle head, ( kinda fits me ). The pull bars I made are for 3/4.

Ya, Quickstep did a demo at ProSource on their "exclusive" thingamajiggy they stole from Torly.

LMAO I was at the same Prosource event dude!! Cept in Tucson ha ha Well you woulda thunk Torly's heard about that by now huh? Can you say copyright infringement?

Same for the Crain knucklehead and the Magnum one...which one came first?

Howard,
The situation is that this is my first time laying a hardwood floor and I am up against the outside door threshold.

Ah ha. I will assume this from your question, tell me if I'm mis reading the situation. Your tight fitting the threshold, with undercut jambs on both sides?
The easiest way to do this is to plan on having an end seam of 2 adjoining planks meeting at some point at the threshold. Then it's just a matter of engaging the t&g and sliding the planks together from opposite ends.
If you prefer to go accross the threshold & jambs with 1 single plank, ( I think this looks best ), here's what I do. A couple rows before I get to the threshold, I will dry fit some planks to get my measurements, and cut that threshold plank. I then spread adhesive for the 3 or so rows. I lay the threshold plank 1st. The planks in the rows going up to the threshold plank I will "tent" like a "v", and engage the t&g. Then push down on the tent and wala,( I call this Tacoing .
To answer your initial post ...IMO it's best to keep the t&g intact, for a slew of reasons I wont get into,( on rare occassion you have no choice ).

You understand my situation perfectly. Thanks for the tip, Howard.

What do you do if it is a nail down job?