I'm about to tackle my first engineered hardwood project, and wanted to get some guidance on layout method for rooms that intersect with a hallway.

I'll be putting 6" engineered hardwood throughout the house, and the upstairs has a long hallway, with two bedrooms on one side, and one at the end. the planks will run lengthwise down the hall.

i'm starting in one of the side bedrooms, and wondering what is the best thing to do when I get to the doorway where the bedroom meets the hall. i could put a t-molding, or i could keep laying floorboards without the t-mold. it seems more professional to keep laying the flooring, and no do a t-mold, but i am not a professional.

thoughts?

If you are fastening the flooring down, you don't need a T-molding. If it is a floating floor you should use a T-molding.

Thanks for the response!

I originally assumed the floor would not move, as I am stapling it down, but the manufacturer install guide specifically states for staple down method to allow 1/2" at all walls. This doesn't make sense to me, since it is engineered, and I can't see how engineered wood flooring stapled to plywood subfloor could move at all.

I may have to call the manufacturer (Provenza) and see if they can clarify.

Wood expands and contracts with changes in its moisture content. The wood's moisture content will be affected by changes in the relative humidity of your home. The 1/2" gap around the perimeter of the room is there in case there is an extreme increase the wood's moisture content...say a flood or extremely high humidity level. If this were to happen the gap would help prevent the floor from pushing on and damaging walls, pipes, etc. It's a good idea to follow the manufacturer's installation instructions.

that makes sense, but being in the high desert (colorado springs), it seems unlikely we'll get any kind of sustained high humidity levels, and all floors are above grade.

the other issue is that one side of the layout butts up against a railing base that is flush with the floor, has no baseboard molding, and would be very difficult to add molding to. i have a few ideas about how to cover an expansion gap there, but none are pretty.

If nailing down, avoid tmolding for door as it looks cheap.

Yes, you want a gap w/ the walls. Usually, you do leave 1/4". But, if manufacturer is recommending more, there may be a reason for that and you may want to check and go over your situation (talk to their tech dept). And, I agree it's best to follow their instructions.

By the railing, maybe you can use tmolding (if it's same height). Or if railing is white you could do quarter round or something. Hard to tell from here.

Debbie
http://TheFlooringGirl.com

thanks for the advice!

i think i can find/make some screen molding for the railing, and now just have to finish prepping the rest of the upper level in order to strike a long straight line to start on on the hall, and move out into the rooms.

clearly i picked the wrong place to start in the house to start simply and build confidence!

Engineered does not move that much, especially in width. I don't even use T-molds when floating cept at transitions to tile.