have started installing 5/8" solid bamboo with a replica of Bostich MIIIFS stapler and shimmed 3/4" bottom plate with 2 layers of 15 lbs roofing felt.

on most planks, the micro-bevelled lip gets damaged ever so slightly by the metal part of the stapler (on each side where the staple is driven in). It doesn't show until the next row is installed and butted onto the previous one.

When I tilt the stapler forward (lifting the plate on the side closer to me), I manage (though not all the time) to prevent the damage to occur when i drive the staples in.

1) has anybody experienced this, and what is the cause ?

2) what can i do to solve the problem completely ?

cheers
---------------
Florian

Where the plate of the nailer meets the nailer "nose", which overhangs the front edge of the flooring, there needs to be a "relief" or slot, groove, notch; whatever you want to call it. So that edge does NOT contact the edge of the flooring and dent it. If yours does not have it, you will need to give it one with any tool that will work; file, saw, whatever.

I have been installing 5/8 bamboo, and noticed the problem you mention. I am using the Harbor Freight stapler.

I was able to solve the problem completely by carefully shimming the base plate with thin sheets of plastic. But I bet I ended up shimming a total of about .080". The trick was to get the staple driving right into the corner of the base of the tongue. This would be consistent with your observation that you can tilt the stapler forward and eliminate the damage. That has the effect of driving the staple slightly higher....as if the shimming was a bit thicker.

I experimented on quite a few test pieces before starting the floor. I also discovered that the HF stapler drives the 2" Grip-Roite staples in to a perfect depth, without cracking the tongues, with only about 65 psi pressure. More pressure starts countersinking the head of the staple and cracking tongues.

Good luck.

Thanks for the reply.
I actually thought the staples have to be flush with the tongue material, so they won't catch on the groove of the next piece.
From what you say, I understand that if the staple would be in the corner of the base of the tongue, it would be flush with the top of the tongue. Will try it out, as I believe my method would weaken the tongue even if it does not break / split.

Will experiment with the low pressure too and report back.
Cheers
------------
Florian

There is a groove, but I don't believe it sits at the height of the bevelled lip when I drive the staples in. Should this be the case ?

-------
Florian

Sorry, I should have been clearer:
When the pressure was too high, the staple would be OVERcountersunk, which would also crack the tongue.
With pressure and position correct, the staple is driven into the corner and countersunk JUST ENOUGH to be into the tongue and clearing the groove of the next board, without cracking the tongue.
Note that the head of the staple does not have to be COMPLETELY countersunk below the surface, because the groove of the next board has a slightly beveled surface at the contact point. Also, I suppose that even if there was a slight contact, the adjacent board would get dented in slightly by the head of the staple when the board is seated into place with the mallet and a tapping black. I was POUNDING the boards up next to each other pretty forcefully, not just "tapping" them into place.

PS: My HF stapler has the "relief" that Gary refers to.

Try shimming with Duct tape. Easy to add or subtract to. Personally, I'd go with a smaller crown staple, out of a trigger activated gun. To each his own.