Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Looking for advice on stairs
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 3:57 pm 
Hi,

I'm in the middle of an install (my first) that is going quite well.

Well, almost --

I'm to the point where I'm at a set of steps that goes down.

I guess it's poor planning, because the way the floor lays out, the end of the next board, or the end of a piece of purchased stair nosing comes more or less exactly to the point where the riser comes up and meets the tread (I haven't cut the existing staircase nosing off yet).
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Here's a view with a scrap installed.



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I'm thinking of making my own molding (I've gotten pretty close in finding a finish that I can live with that comes close to matching the factory finish). My thought is to make it like this:
Image


Is this a good approach? Is there something much more obvious that would be better, or better and easier? The little glued piece that will remain concerns me a bit, but won't bear any weight, is mostly cosmetic.

Will there be problems with my approach?

Thank you experts so much for your opinions.

MLM


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 5:37 pm 
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mlm:

Nice pics--they sure do help. The way I see it you're in great shape. The existing nosing on the top step itself has to be cut off so the riser is square. It almost looks like your prefinished nosing(providing you have some) could meet up with a full board width shown in picture #2.

No wait a minute--that riser looks kinda funky unless I'm seeing it wrong. That's about all I can offer for now. Hopefully others can assist. In the meantime we do have a six page section on installing hardwood on stairs.

Or maybe there won't be hardwood on the steps? If there is, the job should have been started from the bottom of the staircase--but it looks like you're doing okay.

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwo ... stairs.htm

Image

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 6:22 pm 
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Location: Austin
That is a great picture there Ken!

mlm, See how Ken is cutting the bullnose lip off the tread, so it is a 90º squared off.

Put your riser pieces on dry fitting them first with tongues up, and scribe a line on the back of the top piece/board to rip cut to be even with the top of the stair tread. Then attach these boards with glue and blind nails.

Next cut the stair nose to the desired length. Dry fit it to be sure. sliding the nose so it is tight on the underside, against the riser. Glue and top nail it. Filling the top nail holes with color match putty/filler.

Now cut your tread boards to finish the tread to the riser of the step above.

Then the next riser up is fitted just like the first one you did, on the riser and step below.


It seems you just have one step, and didn't plan!!!



After cutting the lip, do the riser as I described above. Dry fit the nose and scribe a mark on the subfloor, or also dry fit a board in that row and scribe it to be cut right there. Your going to need some color matched wood filler.

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 Post subject: THANKS!
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 8:29 pm 
Thanks for the replys!

Ken,

We're undecided if I'll tackle the steps (might just replace the carpet). But, I don't have an option on the top step (level with the floor).

I did read the section on doing steps several times over the last couple of months, but somehow I just missed that it should start from the bottom. Doh.

Floorguy,

You're dead on!!!! I just didn't plan right. I'll not forget that next time. The leading wall was so out of square, and the door frame is actually curved, that I got hung up on starting there!

I have a couple of jars of color-matched putty, they seem close, but there is huge color and grain variation in the product (Kempas).

Thanks for your directions, they are very clear. Makes sense, but I am left with one question.

When I cut back the bullnose to make a 90º, do I just cut back the bullnose (about 9/16" of an inch) --- or should I cut it back so that the squared edge that I am creating is flush with the existing riser (about 1-5/16")?

I'm thinking that based on your instructions, I have to cut it flush, but I'm a little bit concerned that I'll be screwing with the rise/run ratio of the stairs. Am I just a worry-wart?

All of the information that all of you post (and posted in the old board) gave me the confidence and armed me with the information to feel comfortable tackling this job. It's very satisfying, and I owe a lot to the information posted here.

Here's a couple pics of the job so far. I need to install the last row and a half, get this top step issue handled and install new base. Then I get to move our furniture back in!


Image
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Image

Thanks again! :lol: :lol:

[/img][/quote]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 09, 2004 10:28 pm 
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mlm,
Seems the biggest prob before you is that top step overhang. You have a pre-fab staircase. They install a little piece of 5/4 on those right at the top.

Cut that piece of lumber in two and pull each piece away from the edge.(there is a big nail holding it on each side)

I usually take the little overhang piece and rip it down to size on my table saw and simply put it back into place.

If you do what Ken and Perry suggest,you will still be left with a riser issue. I have fixed that by making a fascia/riser from luan.

Good luck,
Chuck.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 5:11 am 
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Quote:
When I cut back the bullnose to make a 90º, do I just cut back the bullnose (about 9/16" of an inch) --- or should I cut it back so that the squared edge that I am creating is flush with the existing riser (about 1-5/16")?


You'll need to establish what is going on the riser first. If it's wood it sounds like you'll be short 3/16" from the nosing when that last piece is put into place?

Somebody must have read through the website quite a bit :lol: I see professionals that are not even that clean. Or should I say hacks in the business that don't bother to use cardboard to place tools on etc.

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See the room scene gallery at Uptown Floors.

Uptown was created by your administrator, offering my high quality 3/4" engineered floors made in the USA. Unfinished and prefinished.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Sep 10, 2004 8:04 pm 
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Location: Austin
Instead of cutting the nose off, you can furr the riser out.

You will have to do it to every step.

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