Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: minwax vs. dura seal
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:20 pm 
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Joined: Tue Oct 29, 2013 8:56 pm
Posts: 24
Hi everyone,
I have been refinishing hardwood floors for 10 years now. Every boss I have ever worked for used minwax stains and they coat the floor right after they put the stain down.
For the last 2 years that I've been on my own I have learned how to create more beautiful looking floors. Such as letting the stain dry overnight to avoid stain pulling and picture framing.
I recently was introduced to dura seal quick dry. LOVE IT! Except that it doesn't give as much open field time to apply it without leaving a few lap lines.
I am applying it on a carpet pad with the buffer while I have an employee cut in and wipe off the edges.
Any ideas how I can avoid lap lines or how to slow its dry time? Anything would help.
Thanks


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 Post subject: Re: minwax vs. dura seal
PostPosted: Wed Apr 16, 2014 8:52 pm 
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Joined: Mon Mar 14, 2011 4:36 pm
Posts: 705
cut man has to work quicker and dry his cut in.
work over less an area.it s not that sensitive..you guys must be turtling.

no reason you shouldn't be able to work over 60-80 sf areas then go back and buff off.

if you need to to, mix in same color minwax to give it more open time..we do that sometimes.

we do that when we don't plan to coat same day such as on larger jobs..still want guaranteed dry, but ease of open time and coverage.

your old bosses were hacks..glad to see you broke the chain

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James Hernandez
All Flortec Inc, West Milford, NJ

http://www.flortechardwood.net


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 Post subject: Re: minwax vs. dura seal
PostPosted: Sat Apr 19, 2014 10:06 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 14, 2008 11:31 pm
Posts: 688
Location: Milford,Connecticut
My initial thought is that it is almost never a good idea to coat over stain the same day that the stain is applied . Years ago, you could coat same day over light pigment colors like golden oak, Ipswich pine and similar colors but I wouldn't risk having to re sand the job just to save 1 day. I know too many contractors that have to sand jobs twice because they rush and that just isn't good business .

Regarding technique, you can do what James said , you can attempt popping grain or maybe even use some thinner . That's up to you . But ultimately, I encourage people to increase their skill level and technique rather than try and modify a manufacturer's product.

I just stained over 1000 sq feet with Duraseal Special Walnut all by myself with zero lap lines .I buffed it on and cut in with a brush like everyone else.Use at least a 2.5" or larger angled sash brush to cut in and wipe it in as you go. After the edges are wiped in , then hit it with the buffer.

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Paul @ Advanced Wood Floors
Milford,Connecticut
http://www.addwoodfloors.com


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