nailing wide planks

m.lander · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 3:16 pm

on 6 inch solid hickory would the performance of the floor be compromised by blind nailing the end tongue as well as the lengthwise tongue. would this help with buckling of the joint?

Gary · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 6:42 pm

I'll tell you, I have done that with oak planks. But here's the problem. When blind nailing the butts, it can cause two problems. It can cause an end crack or split in the wood. That's bad. And it can lift a piece of the tongue, making it more difficult to get tight together. Plus hickory is sorta brittle. If I were installing a wide plank solid hickory, I'd glue and blind nail (but not on the end butts, nail that is).

m.lander · **Posted:** Thu Oct 18, 2007 9:43 pm

thank you. i in no way doubt my abililty i just hate the fact that i'm dealing with wood costs alone of $70,ooo. real bitch to have to replace. what would you or anyone else reccommend as a moisture barrier/retardent below. the construction is advantek or joist on 16" centers

Gary · **Posted:** Fri Oct 19, 2007 1:35 am

I'd glue the planks to the bare subfloor using Bostik's Best in tubes and blind nail through the tongues. Skip the felt paper. Make sure you've moisture tested the subfloor and acclimated the flooring well. NOFMA calls for a 6 mil polyethylene vapor retarder installed on the ground under the house for a crawl space. If it's a full basement, no need. But the basement needs to be dry, as does a crawl space.

jclivzinme · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2007 1:02 am

NWFA also very adimant about using both a trowel adhesive AND blind nails on ANY wood over 4" in width.

I agree with Gary on Bostick's BST as it IS a moisture barrier as well. I also like Chemrex it is one wicked adhesive.

$70,000 :shock:

what did you get University campus???

I hope you billed adhesive in on the price ... 350sq.ft. per $130 5gal. bucket .... boy she adds up in a hurry

Gary · **Posted:** Wed Oct 31, 2007 2:44 pm

I've used Chemrex and it's one stout glue. Once bonded, you'd have to destroy whatever you've glued together to get them apart. It's major permanent. But I missed that part where the NWFA is insisting (?), recommending (?) trowel gluing down solid planks that are over 4" wide. I can see the reasons, no problem there. But is it official now?

jclivzinme · **Posted:** Thu Nov 01, 2007 8:15 pm

I can't quote chapter and verse but I know it is in the big 3 ring binder and in conjuction with installation warranty. NWFA will not help enforce a warranty for any member that did not use adhesive in addition to nails on any product 5" plus.

I'll look for it again to see if I'm able to tell you which booklet in the binder I saw it in.

Jerry Thomas · **Posted:** Fri Nov 02, 2007 2:29 am

Quote:

I agree with Gary on Bostick's BST as it IS a moisture barrier as well

Huh?

jclivzinme · **Posted:** Fri Nov 02, 2007 8:23 am

Spread as a full trowel adhesive they advertise themselves as being a moisure barier as well as adhesive ... whether over concrete or not I'm not sure, but certainly over a crawlspace

Jerry Thomas · **Posted:** Sat Nov 03, 2007 2:36 am

I just don't want you to end up eating a floor one day

. I have seen Bruce state that moisture barrier deal before ...but not Bostik.

Quote:

Features & Benefits

Contains No Water...will not cause cupping or end-lifting.
V.O.C. Compliant.
Freeze/Thaw Stable.
Can be used to install all types of wood flooring including solids, as well as ceramic tile, marble and stone inlays for light commercial and residential applications.
Offers Vapor-Retarding Characteristics to Wood Flooring Installations
(see Chemical & Physical Properties).
Remains Elastomeric; Moves with Expanding/Contracting Wood.
High Green Strength.
High Bond Strength and Elongation.
Trowels Easily.

nailing wide planks

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