Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: newby on screening
PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2007 12:22 am 
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Hi all, first of all a little introduction. My name is Kerry and I own a carpet and tile cleaning company. I am very experienced and knowledgeable in these areas and spend a lot of time helping out other cleaners, now it seems I am the one who needs help!

I have an oak floor, not in terrible shape, that I have recommended a screen and recoat. I decided to take it on myself since my client is used to me taking care of all of his flooring needs. I have done screening before but this is a very high end client, so I thought I would get all my ducks in a row.

After reading as much as possible in this forum, I have gathered that I should screen with 100 first, then 150. Then apply Bona finish (suggestions on which one?) with a Purdy dove tail, keeping a wet edge.

Any other suggestions? He wants a satin finish, low gloss but not matte. There are some scratches and dings but he said he is not too concerned about those or filling the cracks between slats. What about the edges and corners? There is a cork (so I assume it's cork) border along the exterior walls, is this something I should be concerned with? Should I do two coats, and do I screen in between? It didn't say on the directions of the Bona. Also, what should I charge for this?

ANY help is GREATLY appreciated. In return for your help any questions you may have about carpet or tile cleaning/refinishing will be promptly answered.

Thank you!!

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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Mon Aug 06, 2007 11:55 pm 
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Anyone? If not, where else can I get answers?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 6:45 am 
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need a few answers from you first.

What kind of floor is it? (prefinished? or was it site finished?)
Do you know what kind of finish was used previously? (Oil, waterbased, sweedish etc.)

I se you want to usee a bona finish? Did the customer request a water based finish? Traffic? Or are these your decisions?

Was the floor ever waxed?

now some answers.

I personally havenever put waterbased finish on top of an oil based finish.
I have put oil on top of waterbased though, had to wait 2 months to be safe before I did so.
I have had OMU seperate on the floor because it was waxed.
And I have personally not recoated a prefinished floor. Ive sanded them etc. Just have yet to dare to try and recat them, seeing as how I donta actually know how aluminum oxide, and polyurethane may react with eachother.


But steps for a recoat,

screen with 100-150 and grit in betwwen will work, all depends on wich finish you plan on using. I would use 120 on oil. and 150, then 180 hook straps on water.
Go around edges by hand, use a folded up screen or sandpaper (lightly) go with the direction of the boards, and for the but end walls go in a circular motion like the buffer/edger. do NOT cross the boards.
Vacume the floor, then tack to remove all dust. I always use water (just barley damp) Some feel you should use thinner on oil, and water on water.

then get finis and apply, Id go through and write a quick how too for water and oil, but I need to go to work LOL.

Im sure with more info from you, you will be flooded with answers, and if not Ill be back tonight to finish up.

**disclaimer** the above is the way I would do it, every one had different methods LOL


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 11:08 am 
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Thank you!

It is an oak, and I'm assuming that it did have a factory finish but I know it has been done once since then. Therefore, I assume it's o.k. to put another finish on top of that. It is up to me to make all decisions about this floor, as the gentleman of the house has no idea what his ex-wife did to the floor in terms of refinishing. I have pictures, just don't know how to put them into a post yet.

What is OMU? Am I safer using oil based, given the unknown finish on the floor?

Thank you again!

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 07, 2007 4:08 pm 
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sorry I mean is a prefinished floor, or is it a raw floor that was installed then sanded. If it has beveled edges its most likley prefinished, see if the floor is flat, Like look along the shoe molding and see, that way you can tell if it is prefinished.

If it is, I have no advice for you LOL.

If its not, Id say go with an oil based polyurethane, it can go over almost anything. and its 100 times more user friendly.

follow the directions I stated above for screning and vacuming/tacking.

Then take your poly, Mixed WELL, and use a brush to do the edges, 6 inches or so off the walls, and use a lambs wool applicatior for the center of the floor. I cant really expalin in by writing. Im sorry.

But going rate in il for that is 1.25


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 08, 2007 1:59 am 
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No edge, the floor is flat.

How long do I wait before screening the first coat? Is that what you meant with water? Also, in terms of tacking, I have equipment available to sufficiently rinse the floor, is this acceptable? Or do I need to tack with min. spirits for an oil finish?

I can email the pictures if that would help!

Thanks again for your input!

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2007 8:58 am 
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My first bit of advice for you is DONT DO THIS!!! You have never screened and recoated a floor before and you want to "practice" on a high end home...Be prepared to resand and refinish the entire floor if your prep work isn't perfect and the poly doesnt stick... that's the "fix"... Also i never guarantee a screen and recoat b/c you don't know what the h/o has done to the floor.. For example if they use pledge on their furniture and they get overspray on the floor..the poly may not stick and it'll look like your fault. If your dead set on this there is a couple things that were forgotten. First..... CLEAN THE FLOOR !!!!!!!! You must thouroughtly clean the floor first. I use basic's ift followed by squeeky cleaner buffed on the floor with a red pad. Then screen with a maroon pad and 180 gold strips.. using a 100 grit new screen will put swirls all over the floor that you may never get out.. if you are dead set on a screen use a used 150 or 180 grit screen...

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Fast Pasquale
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 1:55 am 
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Fast, thank you so much for your input and correct advice. I should never be touching this floor, but heck I gotta jump in and sink or swim at some point. This client trusts me to do good work, and I have already warned him that a screen/coat may not do the trick. I have covered my butt in terms of liability.

What would you recommend I finish this floor with? I need a satin. Do you recommend two coats with a screening in between?

I do plan on cleaning the floor and have plenty of equipment for that. The only question remaining is what is on the floor already, and will a new finish stick. It is not a pre finished floor, it's a sand in place. What do most guys use when doing these floors originally? Yeah I know, good luck.

Thanks again.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 7:16 pm 
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Dreamer...You can choose oil or water based finish.. they both have their pros and cons. Personally i love the look of oil. It takes longer to dry and has more VOC than wb. Wb dries quicker, is more expensive and i would recommend this finish if you are living in the house or there are small children around. If you are going to use wb.. use a good two part finish like poloplaz 202, or Traffic or Streetshoe.
One coat is standard for a screen and recoat and ill usually get about 1-1.50 sq foot... Its ez money.
Screen the floor with a maroon pad and 3, 180 grit gold strips from 3m. Change the strips every 500 sq feet.
Whenever i have a inckling of a doubt i will first coat the floor with Universal sealer by Parks.. wait about 2 hrs then hot coat (no abrading) your finish on.

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Fast Pasquale
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2007 9:05 pm 
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Fasty has the right answer.
Don't do it.

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Hardwood Floor Inspections. Laminate & Tile Floors


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Aug 25, 2007 8:34 pm 
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Hey Dreamer,

I am also O/O of a carpet, T&G cleaning company. I feel for ya. I refinished my own floor about 2 months ago. Part of that rocess is ecoating.

Its not hard but if you haven't done it before there are a few things to watch out for.

I used my op oscillator machine with the maroon pad to abrade between coats. I didnt use a screen at all. If you have a rotary and use a 100 screen you may get swirl marks.

You should end up with a fine white powder. If so, your doing it correctly. I waited 24 hours between coats. I used a brush for the edges and a roller for the rest of the floor. WATCH OUT FOR DRIPPING coming off the end of the roller. They are hard to see!

Also, apply the finish thin. I used about twice the finish that I needed to on my first coat. I used an oil base because I heard it was the easiest to apply. I used a VERY damp cotton pad to tack. Big MISTAKE, use a fiber pad the cotton pad left very small remnents behind, some of which got finished into the floor.

Try and do someones elses house or your own first. That way at least you've been through the process once. I put 3 coats of finish down. By the
last coat I was getting good at it.

Good Luck fellow CC - Let us know the results

Joe


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