Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 3:27 pm 
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Hello, I'm new here. I'm sure the subject of pine wood floors has bee beaten to death but I have a few questions I've not found answers to that I figured someone here could help with.
I have a home that was built in 1981 in western North Carolina that has a pine floor in the kitchen. I truly can't think of a worse place to have this type of flooring. There is a double layer sub-floor under it. I have seen may ways to fill the space between all the boards but the idea I came up with would look much nicer, I'm just not sure it will work.
The spaces between every single board are between 1/16 and 1/4 inch. I want to strip the floor, stain it then fill the space between with clear Dynaflex 230. The reason I chose that is because it's supposed to flex with the wood. The polyurethane and hopefully be done with it for the next 10 or so years. Is this going to fail? The next option I think will be to rip the floor out and replace it.


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Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Thu Mar 01, 2018 4:05 pm 
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I also found a couple clear wood fillers called Crystalac and Aqua Coat. Is this good stuff? Will it hold up between the floor boards?
I was planning to stain every board a different color just to make it look different. I've since read some stain colors don't work well with pine. Any suggestions there?


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 2:03 am 
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If there are gaps where dirt has contaminated the wood so the clear caulking will not stick you may have a mess, later. The caulking may skin over in an hour or less, but may not cure enough to walk over for a while. The caulking should be coated with the water-based finish after it has hardened so everything has the same gloss level. The caulking is going to shrink a little when it has cured and will not sand easily. You still need to apply at least three coats of finish in a kitchen. I prefer to use a two part finish so it is more solvent resistant and tougher. It is more expensive, but with all the labor investment I want it to last.
It's a lot of work to tear out and replace. If you experiment with these materials so you are confident, you will be getting extra use from what you have. Be sure to let any stain dry well. Oil stains will help seal the wood and any dirt between the boards. The stain between the boards will take an extra long time to cure enough for the caulking to stick.


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 3:07 am 
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Thank you. I figured there would be extra dry time involved. I believe I'm going to have a week total with the kids and wife out of the house so I should be able to do it.
Is there a clear filler you would recommend? How about a two part finish?


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 02, 2018 11:38 pm 
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I have not used a clear filler for the gaps in wood floors, so you are on your own, there.
I like Basic Coatings and Bona two part finishes for floors.


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:04 pm 
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So yes the gaps in the floor are definitely contaminated with dirt. What can I use to clean that out so a filler will stick?


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:37 am 
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Folded sandpaper or a screwdriver with a sharp tip slid through the gap should clean it out pretty well. Vacuum well after "scraping" the gap.


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 Post subject: Re: Pine wood floor question
PostPosted: Wed Mar 07, 2018 6:20 am 
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Ok, I was planning to clean very well. I thought you were saying the wood couldn't bond to a filler because of dirt having contact with it.
Thank you for your help!


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