Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: popping floor boards
PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 10:39 am 
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I installed engineered floors with staples on top of an existing hardwood floor. I didn't know that I could not wet mop my new floors. So the results of me mopping once a week for 6 months is that the boards are popping the staples and seprating from the subfloor. Now that i have smartened up and stopped mopping, the floor boards have gone down, but are still bouncy. I called a local floor place that told me just by looking at pictures that I have to tear out the floor and start over. I am hoping we can face nail them and fill the holes with epoxy or puddy. our basement is dry and we have no other moisture issues, other than me and my mop. I am hoping that this is not a $4,000 mistake. there are about 10 boards that have popped throughout the 800 square feet we put down. Please let me know if there is a way to secure the boards back to the subfloor with out having to do a full tear out. Thank you for your help!


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 12:05 pm 
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I forgot to mention I put felt down between the old hardwood floor and the new ones. So I am not sure if injecting glue would work with the felt.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 23, 2007 6:05 pm 
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I wonder if the wood underneath, buckled???

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:40 am 
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no, the floor underneath was in good condition. no buckling. It is def. from me mopping. Can I face nail it? or do I have to rip the whole floor up?


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PostPosted: Wed Oct 24, 2007 6:28 pm 
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jessepeffer wrote:
was in good condition. no buckling



LOL!!!



You misunderstood...


After you have installed the new flooring over, a perfect floor, the perfect floor underneath, may have buckled, under your new floor, since installation.

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 1:19 pm 
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"Wet mopping" the floor; how much water did you use just out of curiosity?


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:04 pm 
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no puddling, just a regular mop and bucket of water. Usually dried in 5-10 minutes. My basement is completely dry, and we run a dehumidifyer. mopping is the only reason I can come up with.


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PostPosted: Thu Oct 25, 2007 2:48 pm 
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Floorguy may be on to something.

But, sure, you can face nail the floor. I'd be curious if the floor moves downward or not. If there is no downward movement, this would indicate Floorguy is guessing correctly.

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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 6:19 am 
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If I step on the popped boards they lay flat, but only with a decent amount of weight on it. you can tell just by walking on them that the floor beneath is flat. it is just the new floor that is "popping".


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PostPosted: Mon Oct 29, 2007 4:35 pm 
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How often did you staple the boards(staple spacing)

Did you staple each row.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 6:26 am 
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Yes I stapled every board with any where from 5-10 staples depending on the length. I used the type of staples the manufacture suggested. If I were to face nail it down, what gage nail should I use? And what is the best product to fill the holes in with? Poxy, puddy? I want the finish to match. I have lots of extra boards to practice on, just wondering if you have a favorite. I really appricate all your help!


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 7:44 am 
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Where this is at, would you agree the staples pulled out.

You say how many staples per board, but how close apart are the staples?

What is the subfloor made of? Particle board?? OSB???

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 12:40 pm 
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Yes I agree the staples pulled out. We spaced the staples about 6-12 inches apart. The sub floor is 2" wide oak hardwood orginal to the house (1959). We put felt down between the old floor and the new one.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Oct 30, 2007 8:11 pm 
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For engineered, staple spacing is 4-6" apart.

Engineered doesn't move that much, but they want you to really staple it good.

Does this engineered have a thick wear layer, compared to the other layers of plies, below??

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PostPosted: Wed Oct 31, 2007 6:30 am 
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I believe it has 1/4 thick wear layer.


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