I have 3 transition issues that I need help on.

(1) First is a 4 foot rip cut to meet the railing. I can rip the board with my table saw, but it starts out at 2 inches and ends at 2.5. Still I could do it if that's the recommendation.

(2) The boards are perpendicular to the top bull nose. I measured and cut each one, but they still vary 16th of an inch or so. I'm going to replace the top bull nose, but that still doesn't make the cuts straight. If it posts weren't in the way I would use my router to shave a 8th off.

(3) The curved railing transition is another issue. I can use dividers and mark and cut the boards with a jig saw, but the cut will never be perfect.

Pictures Attached. Thanks in advance!

Tom

Wow, somebody got themselves into a pickle. Can you make those pics smaller? I've seen it happen before. This kind of installation should have been started square and going in the other direction. I see the tongue facing out against the nosing on the staircase.

Oh wow, I didn't see that radius until now! I'd have major problems with that one too. Did something similar a few years ago--used a router and a homemade jig to make the cuts. I'd suggest calling in a pro for that area--maybe have them finish the job before it gets worse?

Sorry about the large pics, I fixed them.

I thought you would say I should use T molding. My wife is concerned it would be a trip hazard- but that would be a easy answer. My cuts actually vary less then a dime... but still I need to do a little better.

Tom

It's kinda too late at this point. I'm with Ken; would have worked the other way. OR butt to the nose first then work right to left instead of left to right. On the 2" to 2&1/2" piece, what I do is place the board(s) where they're going with the BOTTOM of the groove resting on TOP of the tongue and draw a mark at each end where the landing strip is. Use a straight piece of wood to "connect the dots" and rip free hand on the table saw LEAVING YOUR LINE. Now use a SHARP block plane and plane to fit. You will need to remove the BOTTOM of the groove on the last board to drop it in. Curves are a MAJOR hassle. You have no choice but to scribe cut and use a fine bladed jig saw. It will test your patience. Good luck.

Take some of that roofing felt and cut strips as wide as your boards, Lay a board on top and cut down both sides.

Now lay that down as a board would be in position. and cut it tight to fit with a utility knife.

Transfer that to your board and cut.

It is called "pattern scribing."

Or...
Using another board, (or a couple of small scraps) place that first board that needs to fit the angle, and the curve, one board width away. Use a pair of scribes, (or compass, with a pencil) to trace the outline onto the board. Cut it out a hair long, and at an angle, so if you need to still remove material,your not taking the full thickness. Sneak up on it, so to speak.
As far as the first picture goes, odds are you'll always wind up with a tapered cut like that somewhere. Cut it a little full, then, trim off the bottom of the groove on the piece you just cut, so it just drops into place. Assuming it is tongue side to the staircase.
The second pic, its would of been better to lay out that first row to where it meets the bull nose, then nail the piece against the nose first, to eliminate the gap. "Work out of Trouble' so to speak. As it is, you may be better off to stain the cut ends, putty the gap, and chalk it up to expereince.

I'm always amazed at what the diy'er will tackle... "Fools rush in, where angels fear to tred"

Thanks for all the advise, I really appreciate it. Clearly there is no "magic" answer here. I'm a pretty a pretty good word worker, so I feel confident I can handle pretty much anything that comes up. I agree that this isn't a DIY project if you don't have any woodworking skills. I must admit, this is far more physically difficult then I thought. I figured the pneumatic stapler would do all the work. Wow was I wrong, but what ever doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and it is getting easier.

Scribing the boards was my thought for the curve, too. I like the template method for where the boards get very small. Looks like the belt sander is going to get a workout. Actually a good excuse to go buy that osculating table sander that home depot/Ridget makes.

I think I can use my router to smooth off those edges and then put a new bullnose on the steps, but I'm going to wait until I'm done everything else.

I agree, made a mistake not staring at the steps. There is a room at the end of the hall that I wanted to tackle first, just to get some experience before I got to the most visual area.

Thanks Again!