Hi,

I'm about to embark on my first wood flooring installation. I have just over 1050sq ft of 3/4" Maple Solid Hardwood, to install onto a 3/4" Plywood sub-floor. Home is in SW Florida and was built in 2009. This is all going on the 2nd story, so none over concrete. Currently there's carpet and foam underlayment on top of the plywood subfloor. Which is obviously all coming out.

I'll be using HWD-15 single ply, asphalt saturated, kraft paper, as an underlayment.

I've purchased the el-cheapo (as i'm not a pro) Harbor Freight 2-in-1 Flooring nailer / stapler. http://www.harborfreight.com/2-in-1-flo ... 61689.html

Which works with L-Cleat nails from 1-1/2" long to 2" long and floor staples from 1" to 2"

I'm not sure what's the best to go with ? Cleats or Staples ? Also 1 1/2" or 2" What do you guys in the know recommend ?

For the first couple of rows, where there will not be enough room for the Flooring nailer / stapler, i picked up another 'el cheapo Harbor Freight 2-in1 Nailer / Stapler. http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gauge-2 ... 68019.html That takes 18 gauge brad nails 5/8" to 2" and 18 gauge narrow crown staples from 5/8" to 1-1/2"

I also have a stair case to do, and i guess i'll use construction glue and the brad nailer for that. But again, any advice on what lengths to use, would be really appreciated.

Actually any tips you guys can throw my way, would be really appreciated. Thanks in advance.

What do the flooring manufacturer's installation instructions recommend? You are going to get different opinions on the cleat vs staples issue. In so far as cleats use 2". More flooring tongue splits with staples. Concerning the HF nailer....check the documentation as you should have a 1 year warranty if it's not going to be used for professional or rental use....hope you didn't buy the extended warranty. Also, if you need replacement parts e.g. seals or gaskets, they won't be available from HF. I believe this tool is a Campbell Hausfeld knockoff and their parts should fit. I used this tool to do my house and I had no jambs or misfires.....sometimes HF gets it right. Also, use less oil than the instructions call for. Not sure how good the HF cleats are.....go to Lowes or HD and buy Bostitch cleats. Not sure what your moisture barrier product is but Aquabar B is very good. For face nailing a 15 ga finish nail will be better....also use this for tongue nailing when you're too close to a wall to use the flooring nailer.

Thanks I ended up buying Aquabar B, as it was only $22 per 500sq ft in Home Depot. I'll use 2" 16GA Cleats, and for the face nailing and first row, i'll buy a HF 15ga finish nailer.

Use the 15 ga finish nails for the stair treads.....18 ga aren't heavy enough. You could also use trim head screws. Also, keep the stair building code in mind when you do the stair treads.

i've done a couple thousand sqft of 3/4 red oak with the HF nailers, do not have anything but good things to say about them. I was told only to use PowerNail brand cleats with them which is what i've alwasys done. I'd always go with cleats over staples imo..

Also, I recomend that anyone doing a nail down invest in a palm cleat nailer:
http://www.amazon.com/Freeman-Tools-PMP ... tdepotc-20

I'd much rather finish off that last row or two with the same cleats that i used on the rest of the floor.

Just wanted to update that my HF flooring nailer, which went thru 3000 2" L Cleats, did not miss a beat during the entire install.

Considering i banged the crap out of it, i am very impressed with its performance for just over $100 (after coupon)

I used a HF 34degrees angled 15ga finish nailer for the first and sometimes 2nd course, and just putty'd the holes.

Top tip for noobs, Do each end first, then work the middle, then anything that's more than 6" apart. That seems to work best. Because the cleats go in at an angle, they press the wood tighter and snug to the plank next to it.

Unfortunately my LL Bellawood flooring, had some inconsistencies in the milling. Some planks were oddly enough 1mm wider than some others, but a good bang on the HF nailer did a good job at correcting the problem. I also stained the side of the planks with a rag and a dip of stain, to make any of those 1mm inconsistencies from a small amount of obvious to not obvious at all.

Congratulations!!!! One more skill to add to your resume. And sometimes HF does get it right.

I just want to make sure I understand that tip (about to start my project with the same nailer.) I'm pretty sure you mean do each end of *a board* first, then the middle of the board, then fill in to get cleats in at 6" spacing?

Thanks!!

Every 6 inches is over kill for regular strip flooring but recommended for plank floors. The wider boards need more fasteners. It won't hurt to over fasten it, if the fasteners don't set to deeply. Flush with the edge of the board is just right.

Nail a board from one end to the other. If a board is being butted to the previously installed board then start nailing at the end that is butted to the previously installed board. If a board is bowed and you nail it's ends then you may not be able to get it flat in the middle. Nailing from one end to the other will flatten and snug it tight as you work (nail) your way along the board.