howdee all...

am looking to finsh off my flooring...just did the living room in 3/4" solid maple...no issues at all
have a set of stairs that i want to also do...your basic 36"x11" treads

i understand ll the prep work required...cutting the tread nose, etc...

so after the risers and treads have been prepd...

do i....

simply glue then face nail? just like in the DIY - starting with the tread nose and work my way towards the riser - scribing the last piece...


or how about doing the tread from back to front - starting at the riser and working towards the nose - dry lay it out - scribe / trim the back plank - place the back plank with the tounge facing away from the riser...face nail the back plank...install nail the rest like normal (in tounge) and then lastly place in your stair bull nose and then top nail it in place?

im not too keen on lots of face nailing but is the 2nd way i suggested missing something or somehow tragically flawed?

any advice you all can give would be great
thanks gang...

baselfish

I'm not real clear here. Are you using solid treads or 3/4" solid flooring with nosing's to make treads?

sorry if i was unclear...
but im trying to use the same material 3/4"x3" solid plank flooring that i used in my upper room on my stairs...

just like in the DIY -

http://www.hardwoodinstaller.com/hardwoodinstaller/stairs.htm

except im trying to get advice on how to do solid 3/4" vs. engineered planks.

in the DIY stair install - all the engineered planks are glued starting with the nose working back towards the riser...

im guessing that in order to do 3/4"x3" planks you have to do the same, but also face nail everything...

or in the other method i described, where you work from the base of the riser to the nose - face nailing the stating - blind nailing the middle parts, and finally face nailing the tread nose...

This is the way I typically do it when I am installing solid flooring on stairs as treads.

thanks for the reply...

guess ill do it the "reverse" method - just making sure to measure just right so my lip on the bull nose fits...

thanks for your input

Yep, I dry assemble and get it tight, then top nail the back board on the tread along the riser so the riser piec covers it. Ten diassemble and blind nail and glue as I reassemble. The stairnose does get top nailled and glued. You don't have to get too crazy with the top nails. I pop one nail one each side 2" in, and one in the middle, as far away from the lip as I can and still get back into solid wood and not through the groove part of the stairnose.

thanks FG...gotcha 100 %

think i can get away with 2" - 18 ga brads to facenail the stair nose?

i figure i could nail a couple 15 ga on the starter row - then hide those with some molding attched to the riser...

im guessing not as with a 1/2 lip on that nose, it needs to be really secure (otherwise the second someone really catches their toe - up comes my stair nose)

thanks again

Since your also gluing, I use smaller brads to hide with putty easier.