i will try saying as much and as little as possible. i will start out by saying i have never layed hardwood floors before. but i know as soon as i get started i will be fine. i am very hands on with things.

ok on to what i am trying to do and accomplish ish on the first level of my condo is hardwood the living room and remove and replace boards in the pre-existing hardwood flooring in 3 spots where there is pet urine damage. last summer i had sanded down the hardwood and refinished it. turned out really good accept for the urine spots were still dark. at that time i didnt know what i was doing about the rest of the houses flooring. but now i have purchased all the hardwood need to do the remaining of my house where it used to be all carpeted.

I have these few questions i am in need of answers to in order to get started. anything else that can be added to my list is welcomed as well.

1. which wall do i start at in the living room to properly tie in to existing flooring but if you look at the pictures i need to remove some of the pre existing flooring in 3 spots. 1 of the 3 is at the end of hallway / enterance of living room (my guess is that thats the wall i should be starting at but no only on that wall but as far back down the hall as i remove preexisting hardwood right?)

2. not sure of the direction of the tonge and grove on the pre existing hardwood at the moment but i am guessing at the enterance of living room/facing the living room that was the end of the run and that would most likley be a tonge sticking out correct? so then i need to get what in order to change up the direction of the tonge and grove?

3. the transition from the bathroom to hardwood currently looks horrible and i want to fix that as well but something isnt adding up to me on what went wrong or what could be done differently with the tile or hardwood. transition just isnt right..




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You can continue the flooring into the living room either by removing the one last board so you can nail into the tongue of the next board or reverse direction with a spline so two grooves butt together with the spline in between. You may need to make a spline or get it from where you procured the new flooring. If you would like to change the direction of the flooring in the living roo you can tie into the tongue of the last board or if it ends in a groove, then spline it with full length boards that have the groove intact starting against the "existing" flooring.
I makes sense to remove all the wood in the hall until you get to the stained wood.
You can re-use the good wood that is not stained on the other pet stained areas or where there has been moisture that curled up a few boards. It probably has the right dimension in width for the patching and you will only need to cut out the bad wood and weave in some without damage.
The doorway to the bathroom should have a header board placed perpendicular to the flooring ripped to the right width to leave a small gap to the tile. The gap should be one half the grout width and filled with a sanded caulk to match the grout color, with a little bit of foam, like that which comes with package padding to partially fill the gap so the sanded caulking is not more than a quarter inch deep. A rip that is not a full board wide at the doorway looks good. Ease the edge of the rip so the sanded caulking which will shrink just a little looks nice and is easier to spread. The tile may need to be cut straight and the edge eased, too, or you could have a factory edge on the tile. It's harder to make it look just right if the till installer has used a bullnose tile. It may look better to remove the bullnose,
but the transition of flooring should occur under some point of the door.
You've got a plan, now it's just a lot of work to make everything get done.
I would plan to sand everything again once the patching is made and the new flooring is down.