Amish made hardwood

It is currently Thu Mar 28, 2024 3:00 pm

All times are UTC - 5 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 
Author Message
 Post subject: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:24 am 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
Hi,

I have a tile kitchen that has two passageways to a living room floor that I am about to install 3/4" hickory (4" wide boards) in. At one passageway, the two floors will essentially meet at the same height. However, at the other, the hardwood will be 1/4" lower than the tile, once installed. The new boards will be running perpendicular to the tiled kitchen.

Subfloor in hardwood area is (now) 3/4" (.688) sturdi floor T&G.

How would you experts suggest I handle that 1/4" difference at the one transition?

Thanks!

Matt


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Amish made hardwood

 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 11:30 am 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
To add - it looks like there is a rise, or bump, in the tile floor right about where this passageway is located. It is near where a porch was enclosed and kitchen expanded before we owned the place.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 2:01 pm 
Offline
Valued Contributor

Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm
Posts: 675
mswhite60 wrote:
Hi,

I have a tile kitchen that has two passageways to a living room floor that I am about to install 3/4" hickory (4" wide boards) in. At one passageway, the two floors will essentially meet at the same height. However, at the other, the hardwood will be 1/4" lower than the tile, once installed. The new boards will be running perpendicular to the tiled kitchen.

Subfloor in hardwood area is (now) 3/4" (.688) sturdi floor T&G.

How would you experts suggest I handle that 1/4" difference at the one transition?

Thanks!

Matt

Make a transition from a piece of your flooring. Decide what width looks good to you. Cut a 1/4" rabbet on half of the underside of the transition. The rabbeted edge will rest on the tile. The side without the rabbet will rest on the hardwood. Bevel both edges of the transition to 15 degrees....this will 'ramp down' the transition onto the tile and hardwood. The thinnest part of the transition edges should be about 1/4". If the hump changes the tile to flooring height difference from the 1/4" then adjust the rabbet to compensate for the difference.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 4:04 pm 
Offline
Prized Contributor

Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am
Posts: 1725
If the tile is cut in a straight line, you could ramp the flooring up a little with shims so it is flush with the tile. You will want to have a header board against the tile that would be full width, 4 inches. Since the tile is already high at the doorway compared to the field, if you add a threshold at the door it will get the finish worn off quickly compared to the rest of the hardwood floor. Leave a gap between the header and the tile of one half grout width that you can fill with sanded caulking to match the tile grout. Tar paper layers will make an exact shim that will not compress under the header board. You can start the shim a few inches before the header board and then make the height exact with a strip of tar paper right next to the tile, a minor slope. This will enable you to have the factory finish, if you are using pre-finished flooring.
If you are just a little high with the transition piece shim, this will protect the sharp edge of the tile where it has been cut from chipping if something is dropped on the edge of the tile, if it is not a factory edge.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:34 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
Thanks!

I did not mention that I am putting in pre-finished. Looks like I have some options!

Matt


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 6:50 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
Pete - you said

Pete A. wrote:
You will want to have a header board against the tile that would be full width, 4 inches. Since the tile is already high at the doorway compared to the field, if you add a threshold at the door it will get the finish worn off quickly compared to the rest of the hardwood floor.


Just so I understand - What are you suggesting as a header board? - a piece of the flooring that is run perpendicular to the field, placed along the tile? Or some fabricated piece I come up with?

Matt


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 7:00 pm 
Offline
Valued Contributor

Joined: Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm
Posts: 675
mswhite60 wrote:
Thanks!

I did not mention that I am putting in pre-finished. Looks like I have some options!

Matt

If you have to do any finishing yourself get a high quality polyurethane and apply several coats. Last N Last is a high end polyurethane.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Tue Feb 06, 2018 10:37 pm 
Offline
Prized Contributor

Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am
Posts: 1725
A piece of flooring makes the header board. You may rip it to fit the opening as needed. You may use the T&G for joining the floor. If the header has a factory edge that's best. You should ease the edge with unfinished flooring before it is laid so the finish can protect the edge.
Typically the floor/tile joint will be under a door if present.
A full width piece is best. Cut the tongue if it is against the tile


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:35 am 
Offline
Worthy Contributor

Joined: Tue Nov 28, 2017 8:02 am
Posts: 146
A prefinished Reducer is also an option, and is very easy to put in yourself. Check for a matching one with your flooring supplier. For consistency you may want a reducer or t-cap at both the even and uneven openings to tile. For a 1/4 difference, you may be able to use the same t-mold at both doorways, just angle the piece a little at the uneven one. Use the track if the molding comes with one or just PL to secure it in place.

This is a third option though - the others above will look better for a bit more work.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 7:02 pm 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
Thanks again, Pete! Hopefully just one more clarification question - not sure I follow this sentence:

Pete A. wrote:
...You should ease the edge with unfinished flooring before it is laid so the finish can protect the edge...


Matt


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Wed Feb 07, 2018 9:07 pm 
Offline
Prized Contributor

Joined: Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am
Posts: 1725
If you decide to rip the flooring so it fits across the opening instead of using a full width plank you will have an edge that needs to be eased. Easing the edge is just using 80 grit sandpaper or a block plane and 120 grit paper to round the corner of the top edge that was cut by the saw to get it ripped to the right width. A little stain and finish will protect the raw newly eased edge. The easing will protect the edge from splintering and allow both the stain and finish to coat the corner, where a sharp edge will not take finish correctly.
A factory edge on the flooring will have a micro-bevel, which has the easing from the factory.


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
 Post subject: Re: Transition to tile that is 1" higher than subfloor
PostPosted: Thu Feb 08, 2018 8:50 am 
Offline
Newbie Contributor

Joined: Sun Dec 03, 2017 8:23 pm
Posts: 17
Ahhh! OK - I see what you are saying now. Thanks so much!

Matt


Top
 Profile E-mail  
 
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 12 posts ] 

All times are UTC - 5 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
cron
Powered by phpBB © 2000, 2002, 2005, 2007 phpBB Group

phpBB SEO