Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Transitons for glue-down engineered wood
PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 7:51 am 
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Location: Fredericksburg, VA
What are my options for transitioning 9/16" glue-down engineered prefinished flooring over concrete, to carpeted floors? The carpet is about the same height. What method of attaching the transition holds best?

Chris


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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 10:10 am 
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9/16, you may get by with just tackstrip(may have to shim it with a strip of sheet vinyl to raise it slightly), stretching the carpet up on the tackstrip pins, Latex carpet sealer in the gully between the tackstrip and wood, trim a hair long of the hardwood, and tuck it into the latexed gully, using a butter knife, putty knife or anything flat, rolling it in the gully crisp and clean.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 21, 2007 5:26 pm 
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I call it a tuck n' tack. No moldings. Carpet tucks to the hardwood. Cleanest transition, IMO.


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:08 pm 
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pound down the pins.. don't want any bloody feet.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 8:34 pm 
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Don't pound the pins down!! A layer or two of duct tape will make the pins not so tall and won't stick you in the foot, with low pile carpets.

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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 9:16 pm 
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Okay, what if my cut ends aren't cut perfect on my engineered and I need to make an overlap or threshold? How do I attach it to the floor (cement and wood) so it doesn't move? Nail or glue?


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 22, 2007 10:26 pm 
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Glue and weight it down for a day. Clean up any glue ooze.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:21 pm 
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another use for duct tape...........
Is there any other product so versatile?
Where can I buy stock in that company?

Pound the tack-strip nails down!! It's easier... and holds the carpet in place.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:39 pm 
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From my vast experience on my knees, installing floors, including carpet, and especially doing repairs and corrections, when you stretch the carpet up on the tackstrip pins, and then beat them dowm, the pins grab the face fibers(yarn) and pulls them down at every tack pin. It then looks like you nailed it down from the top, at every tack strip pin.

It also bends the pins over, and if the carpet has a decent stretch on it, the pull of the stretch, can and will rotate those bent pins, and then the pins are standing straight upwards instead of being at an angle to hold the carpet stretched. It then comes loose from the tackstrip pins.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 25, 2007 6:41 pm 
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I learned the duct tape trick from David Hunt, of The Vermont Rug Company, and reinforced by Mr. Walker of CFI.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 10:11 am 
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Duck tape is good. flattening the pins is easier and it works just fine. Besides with shorter pins (made shorter by the duct tape), the carpet may not hold to the pins, depending on the backing of the carpet.
Woven backing is far different than the backings found on tufted carpet.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 12:17 pm 
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OK, lets clarify this...

Are you beating the pins down before you stretch, or after the stretch and the backing is hooked.


If the pins are sticking you in the foot, they are too long. Not because they aren't bent. Design and function.

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 4:55 pm 
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after the installation,, as always has been..

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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:02 pm 
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Quote:
If the pins are sticking you in the foot, they are too long. Not because they aren't bent. Design and function.


Naw, the carpet nap is too short. :lol:


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PostPosted: Sun Jan 28, 2007 5:34 pm 
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Back in my days, we had plenty of options. There were different strips and different pin lengths.. and easily found.
NOw, I'm not sure of the availability of different pin lengths.
But, nothing changes....... make due with what you have or is available.

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