Where to start/lay first row, upstairs and downstairs...

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

fcat wrote:

JIMMIEM wrote:

I saw your post on Router Forum. You'll get lots of replies. The popular midsize routers (2 1/4 hp) will work for you. I've got a DeWalt 3 base kit. Bosch is top notch as well as Porter Cable. They do make bull-nose router bits that will make the nosing profile in one pass. A more versatile bit option are round-over bits which will require 2 passes....this is what I use. Tables run the gamut price wise. If you make your own you'll have exactly what you want. A table can be as simple as a piece of plywood to which the router is attached. For your initial stair nosing project this would do the trick if you don't want to rush into buying a table. You could clamp the plywood to a work bench or if you have a Workmate you could use it to support the plywood. You could also do the nosing without a table but a table would be more convenient and the preferable way to go. Again, just my 2 cents.
Also, if you get the router you can also use it to cut the groove in your nosing piece. A slot cutting bit would be good for this application....easy to do and very accurate. And, if for any reason you have to re-groove the end of a floor board the router and slot cutter would be easier and safer than trying to make this cut on a table saw....this application may be necessary if you need to cut a board that has been damaged and the end re-grooved.

Again, thanks for the info, much appreciated and just what i was looking for:)

One more thing. If you need transitions you will be able to make your own with a router.

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

I've been following your post on Router Forum and saw your latest but the site was acting up and I couldn't answer there so I'll do it here. You said you were going to make your stair treads from your flooring and add a piece to thicken the nosings. With a 3/4" thick tread you really don't have to make the nosings thicker. You can just add a bullnose to the 3/4" tread. Also, while flooring can be used to make the stair treads you might want to rethink this and buy glued up solid treads. If you buy them unfinished you can finish them yourself and save $$$$$. Compare the look of glued up treads vs treads from floor boards to see which look you like better. Also, it's going to be more work to make them from floor boards and not necessarily cheaper material wise.

Pete A. · **Joined:** Tue Jun 16, 2015 12:02 am **Posts:** 1735

With a grooving router bit you can make narrow boards when you need an exact width, in a doorway, for instance.
It may sound backwards, but turn the board upside down when you are grooving so you slide along the bottom of the board, unless you are using a router table.
I just clamp the board to my toolbox upside down and slide along.
If the board is thicker or thinner than average it still sits on the floor when the bottom of the board is used for reference. Slot cutters usually cut too deep of a groove. Get a bit made for ¾ inch thick flooring, it will have a curved tip instead of a square tip and will make a groove the right depth

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

JIMMIEM wrote:

I've been following your post on Router Forum and saw your latest but the site was acting up and I couldn't answer there so I'll do it here. You said you were going to make your stair treads from your flooring and add a piece to thicken the nosing. With a 3/4" thick tread you really don't have to make the nosing thicker. You can just add a bullnose to the 3/4" tread. Also, while flooring can be used to make the stair treads you might want to rethink this and buy glued up solid treads. If you buy them unfinished you can finish them yourself and save $$$$$. Compare the look of glued up treads vs treads from floor boards to see which look you like better. Also, it's going to be more work to make them from floor boards and not necessarily cheaper material wise.

Yeah I was wondering whether to make the treads thicker at the front edge or not. The flooring is slightly distressed but is also hand scraped so getting a pre made unfinished tread to look similar to the the floor would be even more of a challenge i think. Pre made treads from the factory to match the flooring are going on $130 each!

To make each tread out of the flooring I'll need 2.09sqft which works out to about $12. One thing i am slightly worried about is that when ive rounded the front edge off im going t have to make the color and finish look the same. The flouring is finished with what looks like a matte finish which is coating in whats called an aluminum oxide process. As the front edge of the steps will be very prominent when walking up them.

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

fcat wrote:

JIMMIEM wrote:

I've been following your post on Router Forum and saw your latest but the site was acting up and I couldn't answer there so I'll do it here. You said you were going to make your stair treads from your flooring and add a piece to thicken the nosing. With a 3/4" thick tread you really don't have to make the nosing thicker. You can just add a bullnose to the 3/4" tread. Also, while flooring can be used to make the stair treads you might want to rethink this and buy glued up solid treads. If you buy them unfinished you can finish them yourself and save $$$$$. Compare the look of glued up treads vs treads from floor boards to see which look you like better. Also, it's going to be more work to make them from floor boards and not necessarily cheaper material wise.

Yeah I was wondering whether to make the treads thicker at the front edge or not. The flooring is slightly distressed but is also hand scraped so getting a pre made unfinished tread to look similar to the the floor would be even more of a challenge i think. Pre made treads from the factory to match the flooring are going on $130 each!

To make each tread out of the flooring I'll need 2.09sqft which works out to about $12. One thing i am slightly worried about is that when ive rounded the front edge off im going t have to make the color and finish look the same. The flouring is finished with what looks like a matte finish which is coating in whats called an aluminum oxide process. As the front edge of the steps will be very prominent when walking up them.

Who is the manufacturer of your flooring? You should be able to match the color and the finish. $130 is expensive (to me). I don't know what kind of budget you have. When you know the color and finish sand down a piece of scrap flooring and apply the color and finish and see how you do. You should be able to duplicate the manufacturer's look.....their process makes a longer lasting finish but yours will last for years. Site finished floors are installed all the time and last a long time. The manufactured treads will be made by gluing strips of wood together. These strips are referred to as staves and depending on the quality and grain match the joint lines, between the staves, can be barely visible.
If you can't find the treads you can do your own by installing individual floor boards or you could make your own treads from staves and install them as 1 piece. Sweat equity!!!!!

floormeintucson · **Posted:** Sat Jan 16, 2016 2:59 pm

Is it too late to chime in. LOL
I'd start in the hallway running into the rooms and go from there.

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

floormeintucson wrote:

Is it too late to chime in. LOL
I'd start in the hallway running into the rooms and go from there.

Its never too late

thanks for your interest

I was planning on starting on the long hallway wall against the bathroom with the groove facing the wall, i would then place a spline in the groove that is along the bedroom 1 doorway and reverse the direction of the flooring into bedroom 1.

I'm also now trying to decide whether to go with the exact same flooring BUT in the engineered wood. Due to the humid VA summers and cold winters, the length of the total floor done in one shot without transitions from left to right down the hallway, plus its 1/2" thick and would slot nicely under the baseboard without having to take it all off!

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

fcat wrote:

floormeintucson wrote:

Is it too late to chime in. LOL
I'd start in the hallway running into the rooms and go from there.

Its never too late

thanks for your interest

I was planning on starting on the long hallway wall against the bathroom with the groove facing the wall, i would then place a spline in the groove that is along the bedroom 1 doorway and reverse the direction of the flooring into bedroom 1.

I'm also now trying to decide whether to go with the exact same flooring BUT in the engineered wood. Due to the humid VA summers and cold winters, the length of the total floor done in one shot without transitions from left to right down the hallway, plus its 1/2" thick and would slot nicely under the baseboard without having to take it all off!

Removing and reinstalling baseboards is not difficult and I wouldn't let the baseboard work be the determining factor in what type of flooring to install. Wood flooring is happiest when the house's relative humidity level is maintained via humidification/dehumidification within an optimal range at all times during the year. If you have large humidity swings which will be outside that optimal range for extended periods of time then select a flooring product that will work with that humidity range. Concerning the nosings, if you go with the thinner engineered flooring you'll have to rethink make vs buy.

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

So i ordered m flooring last week, should be here tomorrow! i eventually went with 3/4 x 4 3/4 Acacia made by Elk Mountain. All the baseboards have been removed and theres little left to do in the rooms.
Ill be following the manufacturers details regarding acclimatizing the flooring and will be checking the floor and the flooring with a Moisture meter. I'm in no real rush to do the job and want to conditions to be the best possible. We have 3/4" OSB on the floors, the house is 7 years old and in Northern VA.

I'll be using a air nailer and was looking for suggestions as to the best brand nails and what length to use ?

Thanks again.

p.s. After everyones help and posts above i will be making my own stair nosing, but that jobs after the floors have been laid.

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

fcat wrote:

So i ordered m flooring last week, should be here tomorrow! i eventually went with 3/4 x 4 3/4 Acacia made by Elk Mountain. All the baseboards have been removed and theres little left to do in the rooms.
Ill be following the manufacturers details regarding acclimatizing the flooring and will be checking the floor and the flooring with a Moisture meter. I'm in no real rush to do the job and want to conditions to be the best possible. We have 3/4" OSB on the floors, the house is 7 years old and in Northern VA.

I'll be using a air nailer and was looking for suggestions as to the best brand nails and what length to use ?

Thanks again.

p.s. After everyones help and posts above i will be making my own stair nosing, but that jobs after the floors have been laid.

I use Bostich 2" flooring nails.

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

JIMMIEM wrote:

fcat wrote:

So i ordered m flooring last week, should be here tomorrow! i eventually went with 3/4 x 4 3/4 Acacia made by Elk Mountain. All the baseboards have been removed and theres little left to do in the rooms.
Ill be following the manufacturers details regarding acclimatizing the flooring and will be checking the floor and the flooring with a Moisture meter. I'm in no real rush to do the job and want to conditions to be the best possible. We have 3/4" OSB on the floors, the house is 7 years old and in Northern VA.

I'll be using a air nailer and was looking for suggestions as to the best brand nails and what length to use ?

Thanks again.

p.s. After everyones help and posts above i will be making my own stair nosing, but that jobs after the floors have been laid.

I use Bostich 2" flooring nails.

Thanks, just purchased a couple of boxes:)

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

Well its here! 5238lb of it!

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

You'll get a good workout just carrying the boxes into the house. Hope you're going to video tape the project and post pictures as you progress.

fcat · **Joined:** Sat Nov 14, 2015 6:23 am **Posts:** 30

JIMMIEM wrote:

You'll get a good workout just carrying the boxes into the house. Hope you're going to video tape the project and post pictures as you progress.

I ache like you wouldn't believe this morning!!

I'll take some pics as i go along, yeh:)

JIMMIEM · **Joined:** Sat Oct 19, 2013 3:05 pm **Posts:** 675

fcat wrote:

JIMMIEM wrote:

You'll get a good workout just carrying the boxes into the house. Hope you're going to video tape the project and post pictures as you progress.

I ache like you wouldn't believe this morning!!

I'll take some pics as i go along, yeh:)

Where were all the friends that owed you?
Make sure you have some good knee pads once you start prepping the subfloor and laying the new flooring.

Where to start/lay first row, upstairs and downstairs...

Who is online