Amish made hardwood

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 Post subject: Another Newbie
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 12:46 am 
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Location: houston
I purchased a solid wood glue down from Bella Wood :? and am new at this. I've put down tile and ceramic in small rooms but not 3" boards. I just need a push....If you look at this picture and advise me where you would start...that would make me happy.... http://www.newbid.net/temp_photos/temp.h2.gif
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Area a is where I would like to start but how do I figure out if I'll be square by the time I get to area B and D? (am doing A B C D).

Also have seen people remove base boards and have seen them not remove baseboards.........which is it?

Thanks For Any Help

Lou[/url]


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 Post subject: starting out
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:02 am 
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Location: Albany, Oregon
start your board down the middle of a, if you are running vertically on the plans. Whether you run a header board at the entry is your call, I would. (youll need a router)
After you are completely center down the room with the straight single board and it is tacked down, run spline/ slip tounge down the groove of the plank. Now you can rack out groove side both left and right of your first board.
IF you measure correctly youll be straight into every room, and most importantly you will have a perfectly straight line at entrance.

J


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 1:31 am 
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jabwood gave you the right advice, as far as baseboards go, you can find those who will advise you either way, and make a strong case for each. If you have that cheap little 2 1/4 reversible base, rip it off, iand install some nice base when you are done. If your base is the taller 3 1/4 product, then you could leave it on, and use base shoe or 1/4 to trim it out. People then usually ask "What do I do at the door casing, where I've undercut the trim, how do I angle the base shoe or 1/4 round?" My answer is to under cut the base about 3/4 of an inch or so back from the door moulding, so you can run the hardwood far that you have room to 45 it, or do a return on the end.
There is no right or wrong, just what works best for your skills and wallet.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 2:44 am 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
SK, please define again.
Quote:
My answer is to under cut the base about 3/4 of an inch or so back from the door moulding, so you can run the hardwood far that you have room to 45 it, or do a return on the end.


Thanks!


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 Post subject: Thank You
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:24 pm 
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I've gotten more help from you guys than Lumber Liq.

Anyway I don't speak floorese but if I could say I snap a line down the middle of area a and can go either way from there.....My additional question would be if my center line won't get me a full board in area b ...then should I move the line?
Question 2 When I go down the hallway,I'll be going on an angle....but I'll be sleeping on the couch for a while if I go into room D and I'm not riding the wall. Is there any way to precheck this calculation....since due to furniture will be doing a and B first?

Also thanks for tip on baseboards...they look like they are welded.

Also a better video on gluedown than DIY is at Bostick.....had to buy the Moisture Vapor Protection
http://www.bostik-us.com/products/index ... yPageId=34
Thanks again
Lou[b]
[/b][/b]


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Jan 03, 2006 11:49 pm 
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Location: Murphys, Calif.
I thought about that after I read what I had posted. I know you know this one. When I leave the base in place, and under cut the jambs, I just slide the saw down the base a little ways. Maybe and inch or three. Then after I remove that piece of base, I can cut that particular piece of hardwood so that it goes under the base, as well as the trim, far enough, so, when I do the base shoe, or 1/4 round, I can end the "trim' with either a return, (I prefer that), or a 45 degree cut. That way, you don't have that possible gap between where the baseboard and door case moulding meet. Is that clear, or am I still lousy at explaining myself??? :lol:

Also, when you snap your line, you can then take your tape measure, and measure back to the doorways, or wall to need to "hit" Take that measurement in inches, divide by the width of you hardwood floor, and the result will be the number of rows of wood to get there, plus a fraction. that fraction is the width of the last board. Otay??


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:13 am 
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Otay, SK! Got it now. :lol: Yes, I do it that way as well when running baseshoe. BTW, my aunt used to live a little east of Murphy's up 4. Lovely country. You're fortunate to be able to make a living in the foothills. Many can't make it up there.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 2:27 am 
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Location: Murphys, Calif.
Been here so long the natives think I'm one of them. Between work, my kids, and their sports, I know enough people to keep busy from referrals. I consider myself lucky ! I moved up here with my family in 1972, when I sixteen.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2006 7:13 pm 
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Location: Albany, Oregon
glad we could help jacksonian.
J


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 Post subject: Why didn't you talk me out of this!
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 2:21 am 
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Any help............. I've done 2 boxes and after already glued for 6 hours.....row 2 in a couple of boards pulled away about a 1/8" or less. What can I do short of pulling all the boards out????


This is a lot of work.......I watch the video and see these guys slapping it down so easy......messy.....glue on all my door knobs.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 8:06 am 
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Keep a wash cloth with mineral spirits near by at all times!!! I'm constantly wiping my fingers, so I don't get glue everywhere.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2006 4:46 pm 
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Yeah, and make sure not to be a slob.

Love
Jamal


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 Post subject: RE:make sure not to be a slob
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 12:36 am 
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You guys that do it all the time.....do you still have hair on your arms?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2006 3:51 pm 
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Location: Albany, Oregon
When I glue down I make sure that I have enough wood, that all my saws are set up in a dust containment area, and that Im completely clothed so that I dont have to get a body wax that week. Who needs a trowel when you can body roll the glue....thats just a little advice from a guy who never does glue downs. 8)


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2006 11:01 am 
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The only time I get glue up on my arms, is when I'm trying to get that last little bit of adhesive out of the bottom and sides of the pail. It happens everytime. Only a couple of cuss words, and grab the mineral spirits.

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