Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 11:00 am 
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Dave, Ernesto and I, have a good time giving each other a hard time. We are friends, and get along fine. When someone gives me a hard time, I don't take it personally. I understand everyone has an opinion, and have a right to it. I may ask to explain that opinion, so I can understand where they're coming from. The typed word, does not show the emotion of the spoken word, and can be mistaken easily.

We share the same views on many things, but not all.
Ernesto(Stephen) likes inspecting, more then installing, as I do. Who wouldn't! He just has not had the oppurtunity to attend Howard Brickmans classes, nor take the hard, NWFA inspectors certification test.

Your not just going to stroll in and pass that test, without studying!

I like Stephen, he's a straight up guy. He does not hesitate to tell it like it is! I like that. No BS, and an excellent craftsman at what he does, to boot.


Take it easy, no harm, no foul!

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Amish made hardwood

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 11:07 am 
Thanks dude.

Quote:
The price shopper that has been educated, can turn into your worst nightmare, when you the installer, makes it look easy to install. That dollar bill starts yelling at them.


I have never had any qualms about my price from consumers I have installed for. Maybe your too concerned with speed.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 12:57 pm 
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Speed? I'm slow as molasses.

Once the floor prep is done, I can only get in 250, to 300 sq.ft. in a 10 hour day. Gluedown/Concrete.

The once price shoppers that I pursuaded, quality over price is best, start adding up what I am really making per hour, they want to put me back at laborer status, after the contract has been signed. They don't understand what it takes to run and maintain a business. I guess I educate them as I install(if they are there watching) and they come to the conclusion, it isn't that hard.

Had one homeowner years ago watch me for the first day I started placing boards, and I got his dining room and part of the living room done, before it was time to call it a day.
I was coming back the next day, so I left all my tools on the job. I get there the next morning and he has finished the installation, only paying me for what I did(before I had contracts). I loaded my tools and left, pretty PO'ed. He was price shopping hard, when I walk through his home to give him the quote.

It doesn't happen with all of them, but it has happened.

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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 1:46 pm 
And you had a contract? If you had a contract he still owed for the total job.

hehe

Thanks for all the nice things you said Perry. I like you too.

The thing that bugs me about associations is that they want everyone to be professional but only if you give them money. And if you don't your looked down upon.
They think they are the only ones with the information they hoard.

This should be taken to the chit chat room.


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PostPosted: Tue Oct 05, 2004 5:14 pm 
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Looks like this is turning into Contractor Chit Chat---time to move

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 Post subject: So, Should I go with Gary's advice? Is that the concensus?
PostPosted: Sat Oct 09, 2004 7:32 pm 
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My only concern is the elevation of the wood floor i am creating. Should I use an engineered to keep the height down, or am I "shorting" myself by not going for the 3/4" solid? Any recommendation on brand, either way, would be much appreciated. Thanks to all for their response.

Nick


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 10, 2004 11:52 am 
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Location: Antioch, CA. 94509
If you use the plywood and 3/4" solid floor system, you'll raise things up 1&1/2". Can you accomodate that? Another way to get the performance and look of a solid floor is with Owens PLANKFLOOR which can be nailed or glued. It's got a 3/16" solid sawn top layer bonded to a ply backing and is about 5/8" thick. It is unfinished, just like solid, designed to be glue or nailed and sanded and finished in place. I think with some sanding and filling at your transition, this product maybe your best bet to achieve a solid look and feel without the expense of installing plywood.


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 8:03 pm 
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Gary,

First, thanks again for your detailed responses. The plywood cost and labor don't bother me, as I would rather "do it right" the first time. My only concern was the 1-1/2" height I will be creating, and whether it will transition well from the tile floor that will be installed, before or after the wood flooring. It might be a non-issue, because by the time I use W-Board and 3/4" stone , I'll probably be at that elevation. Should I use the prefinished 3/4" wood flooring or do you recommend the unfinished?

Thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2004 9:11 pm 
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Well Rollo,
No one can answer that question for you. It is a matter of preference, IMO. Factory finished floors that are 3/4" solid often have micro bevels; whereas finished in place are sanded flush, no bevels. Factory finished floors cost more than unfinished flooring but you get the job done in about half the time. Job-site finished floors take longer, create more dust, and require some skill in sanding and finishing BUT, when done well, have a look that factory finished floors only try to emulate. If you are doing all the work yourself, I would recommend factory finished floors. The sanding and finishing of wood floors is an art and skill that I feel requires years of experience and training. However, if your expectations are not too high, you can do the sanding and finishing yourself. Or you could install the wood and hire a local pro to do the sanding and finishing part. Good luck! :D


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 9:23 pm 
But are on site finishes as durable as factory finished?


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PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:20 pm 
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If you spend enough money on urethane,they can be more so. No overwood,either.


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 Post subject: Site Finished
PostPosted: Sat Oct 16, 2004 10:47 pm 
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Location: Mississippi Gulf Coast
Ernesto, Most factory finished floors may have a more durable finish but the site finished has no overwood,no micro-bevel,and is usually easy to repair and recoat.
Speaking of durable finish, my son and I are going to a two day class and hands on training secession to become certified to apply ceramic finish for wood floors. They say it is the most wear resistant finish ever, we will see.
Buddy


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 3:01 pm 
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Buddy,
Which finish would that be? I've heard of TREX Plus. Is this it? Didn't know one needed to be certified to apply a floor finish. :)


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 Post subject: Ceramic Finish
PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 3:34 pm 
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Gary, You can read about the finish at www.trustorcoatings.com. If you are certified, the jobs you do with some of their finish will have a warranty.
I am happy with our finish system now but most people are asking for the most durable finish they can get so this may be it.
Buddy


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PostPosted: Sun Oct 17, 2004 6:54 pm 
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Thanks Buddy, BTW, WearMax is the same finish that is on Award floors.


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